Check In, Dine Out: The Painswick, Cotswolds
For the latest instalment of The Knife’s hotel dining series, 'Check In, Dine Out', we head to the heart of the Cotswolds and The Painswick, where new Head Chef Kian Puerta-Terron is bringing fresh energy to SAUCE. With seasonal British ingredients, subtle international influences and a particularly memorable halibut dish, this charming countryside retreat is giving food lovers plenty of reasons to make the journey.
Freshly Seasoned
There are few villages that capture the charm of the Cotswolds quite like Painswick. Known affectionately as the 'Queen of the Cotswolds', its honey-coloured stone buildings, winding streets and sweeping countryside views make it a natural destination for anyone looking to escape the city.
Set within an elegant 18th-century Palladian house, The Painswick has been part of The Calcot Collection since 2016. The Grade II-listed property combines historic character with contemporary country-house comforts, creating a boutique retreat that feels stylish without taking itself too seriously.
There are inviting lounges, open fires, a cocktail bar and beautiful views across the surrounding valleys. For those travelling with family or friends, a neighbouring Cotswold stone cottage offers three bedrooms, a cosy lounge and the privacy of a home away from home, with the added convenience of hotel hospitality.
But while the setting provides plenty of reasons to check in, it's the hotel's restaurant, SAUCE, that is currently attracting our attention. With a newly appointed Head Chef at the helm and a menu that balances British seasonality with carefully considered international influences, The Painswick is entering an exciting new chapter in its culinary story.
A New Chapter for SAUCE
At the heart of that evolution is Kian Puerta-Terron, who stepped into the role of Head Chef earlier this year, having already spent 18 months working within The Painswick's kitchen.
His journey into hospitality began in his grandparents' pub, before professional training at Cheltenham's acclaimed Lumière set him on a path through some of the South West's most respected kitchens. Experience in Cornwall and at Bristol's celebrated Spanish restaurant Bravas followed, helping him develop a style that brings together classical French technique, seasonal British produce and subtle influences from further afield.
His Spanish family heritage plays a part in that approach, while a personal interest in Japanese cuisine informs his appreciation for depth of flavour and balance. The result is a style of cooking that feels entirely suited to The Painswick: confident and considered, without unnecessary formality.
"We always try to cook with the seasons because that's when ingredients are at their very best," says Kian. "We're fortunate to work with incredible local suppliers, and I want every dish to feel refined but still approachable."
That commitment extends to the restaurant's relationships with trusted producers, including Walter Rose & Son, which supplies ethically sourced meats. It also gives Kian the freedom to evolve his menus with the seasons, allowing ingredients to shape the direction of the kitchen rather than the other way around.
For a restaurant already established as a popular dining destination in the Cotswolds, his appointment presents an opportunity to build on its reputation while introducing a more personal culinary identity.
Seasonal British Cooking with a Twist
The best way to understand Kian's approach is, naturally, to sit down and eat. During our recent visit to SAUCE, the menu offered an appealing combination of familiar British favourites, inventive vegetable dishes and carefully executed seafood.
The opening snacks set the tone, ranging from Painswick sourdough with Netherend salted butterm to coppa stagionata, cheddar and jalapeño croquetas, potato rösti with cod's roe, and caramelised onion and cheddar custard tartlets.
Starters continued the theme of familiar ingredients given a little extra personality. Twice-baked cheddar soufflé came with spinach and Parmesan cream, while a fresh English pea and wasabi bavarois was accompanied by pickled radish. Elsewhere, Isle of Wight tomatoes were paired with ricotta, harissa and pickled onions, and cured Loch Duart salmon arrived with sea buckthorn, chilli and kale.
Our choice, however, was the chicken and mushroom stuffed padrón peppers, served with Painswick apricot and miso ketchup. An excellent opening dish, it demonstrated the appeal of Kian's cooking rather neatly. The familiar Spanish pepper provided the starting point, while the chicken and mushroom filling gave it a more substantial, savoury character. The apricot and miso ketchup introduced a playful contrast, bringing a touch of sweetness and umami to the plate. It was an assured introduction to a menu that clearly has no intention of limiting itself to one particular culinary tradition.
The main courses offered plenty more to explore. Gnocchi Parisienne came with sprouting broccoli, salsa verde and BBQ maitake mushrooms, while roast stone bass was paired with blackened aubergine and roast chicken vinaigrette. A West End Farm pork loin, served alongside crispy cheek, salt-baked kohlrabi and apple, provided another example of Kian's ability to bring contrasting flavours and textures together. And for those who prefer to keep things traditional, The Painswick's celebrated Beef Wellington remains firmly on the menu, accompanied by green beans.
But it was the steamed halibut, served with fig leaf curry and oyster mushrooms, that proved the standout of our visit. An exceptional main course, it brought together a delicate piece of fish with an intriguing combination of ingredients that complemented rather than competed with one another. The fig leaf curry gave the dish its distinctive character, while the oyster mushrooms introduced an earthy dimension. There was a lovely sense of balance to the whole plate. It felt refined and imaginative without becoming overly complicated, allowing the halibut to remain the star of the show. If there was one dish that encapsulated what Kian is bringing to SAUCE, this was it. A confident expression of his approach to flavour and a compelling reason to return.
A Little More Room for Something Sweet
Desserts continue the kitchen's seasonal approach, with British fruit featuring prominently across a menu that combines recognisable favourites with some more unusual combinations.
Evesham strawberries are paired with crème fraîche mousse and crystallised pumpkin seed, while Basque cheesecake comes with English cherries. A white chocolate choux bun is served alongside Hereford raspberries and brownie, providing a particularly tempting option for anyone with a sweet tooth.
There is also a honey and meadowsweet tart accompanied by preserved blueberry and yoghurt ice cream, and a selection of British artisan cheeses for those who prefer a savoury finish. It's a dessert menu that follows the same philosophy as the courses before it: familiar foundations, seasonal produce and enough creativity to keep things interesting.
Beyond the dining room, the hotel's cocktail bar and relaxed lounges provide somewhere to settle in before or after dinner. When the weather allows, the terrace offers an equally appealing setting for a leisurely lunch overlooking the Cotswold countryside.
Here, dining feels like a natural extension of the hotel's easy-going atmosphere, whether you are visiting for a special occasion, escaping for the weekend or simply making the journey to discover what Kian and his team are doing in the kitchen.
Check In for the Countryside, Return for the Food
There is no shortage of beautiful hotels in the Cotswolds, and The Painswick certainly has the setting, character and countryside charm to hold its own among them. But what makes this particular property worth exploring is the growing identity of its restaurant.
Kian Puerta-Terron's arrival as Head Chef represents an exciting next chapter for SAUCE. His cooking respects the quality of seasonal British ingredients while drawing on the techniques and influences that have shaped his career, bringing a welcome sense of individuality to the menu.
Our recent visit offered an excellent introduction, from the chicken and mushroom stuffed padrón peppers to a steamed halibut dish that was undoubtedly the highlight of the meal. It is exactly the kind of experience 'Check In, Dine Out' was created to celebrate: a hotel where the food is every bit as compelling as the setting, and where the restaurant deserves to be considered a destination in its own right.
The Painswick may offer a beautiful excuse to escape to the countryside, but under Kian's direction, SAUCE is making an increasingly persuasive case for planning the entire trip around dinner.
