The Wagyu of the Sea: A Conversation with Founder Apinash Sivagumaaran, ISSO
Apinash Sivagumaaran opened the first ISSO with just 16 seats in Colombo, close enough to watch guests take their first bite of Hot Butter Prawns. Now his Sri Lankan seafood restaurant has made its international debut in Canary Wharf, bringing giant prawns, Jaffna curry and flaky parotta to London.
For Apinash, prawns are the "wagyu of the sea", and Sri Lankan food deserves a bigger place on the global culinary map. The Knife spoke with Apinash about the fishers who shaped his understanding of seafood, the sauce Londoners have fallen for, and why a meal at ISSO should always be shared.
You went to Australia to study banking and finance, but ended up working in restaurants. What pulled you away from the numbers and into hospitality?
Finance gave me structure, but my heart was always elsewhere. I come from Sri Lanka, a country world-famous for its warmth, generosity, and hospitality. Being naturally drawn to making people feel welcome is part of our DNA.
Your first ISSO restaurant had just 16 seats. What do you remember most vividly about those early days in Colombo?
I remember the immediate, unfiltered reactions from our very first guests. With only 16 seats, you were literally standing right next to the tables as people took their first bite. Watching someone’s face light up when tasting our Hot Butter Prawns or Jaffna Curry for the first time gave us instant validation. Getting that real-time feedback, seeing people smile, nod, and immediately ask for extra parotta to mop up the sauce, is what kept us going through those intense early days.
You’ve called prawns the "wagyu of the sea". What do you think people have overlooked about them?
People often treat prawns as a secondary ingredient, something tossed casually into a pasta or stir-fry without much thought. But when you source wild, ocean-caught giant tiger prawns from nutrient-rich waters, they carry a distinct marbling of natural sweetness, a firm, succulent snap, and a depth of sea flavour that rivals the rich, prized texture of Wagyu beef. They aren't just protein, they are a canvas for something bold.
If someone walks into ISSO in Canary Wharf knowing nothing about Sri Lankan seafood, what would you order for them first?
I’d start them with our Colossal Wild Tiger Prawns in Hot Butter Sauce, paired with flaky layered parotta and a side of fresh Pol Sambal (scraped coconut with red chilli and lime). The Hot Butter Prawns give an immediate, irresistible hit of garlic, chilli, and sweet butter that feels comforting, while the fresh coconut sambal introduces them to the raw, vibrant, untamed spirit of Sri Lankan flavour.
Black Tiger, Flower, Giant Freshwater or Colossal Freshwater: which prawn has the biggest personality on the plate?
The Colossal Freshwater Prawn, without question. It’s an absolute showstopper. It has a magnificent, almost lobster-like presence, a rich head-fat (tomalley) that infuses straight into our coconut and spice gravies, and a meatiness that commands the entire plate.
ISSO works with around 150 small-boat fishers in Sri Lanka. What have the people catching the prawns taught you about the product?
Most of what I know about prawns comes from my partner, Janaka, and his team at Alpex Marine, alongside the local fishermen. They kept it simple for me: a Black Tiger, a Flower Prawn, or a Giant Freshwater Prawn are completely different beasts in terms of texture and flavour. One thing I learnt is that when you have seafood this fresh, you don't need to overcomplicate it; just let the natural sweetness speak for itself.
Which sauce tastes most like home to you, and is there one you think Londoners will fall for?
For me, our Jaffna Black Roasted Curry tastes like home. It’s deep, intensely aromatic, and rich with coriander, cumin, and dark garcinia (goraka). As for Londoners, they are already head-over-heels for our Hot Butter Sauce. It’s addictive, indulgent, and bridges the gap between familiar comfort food and bold Sri Lankan spice.
Why did Canary Wharf feel like the right place for ISSO’s first restaurant outside Sri Lanka?
Canary Wharf is a global crossroad. It has a discerning international audience that works hard, travels widely, and appreciates vibrant, high-quality food that does not compromise on flavour. Coming full circle from my finance days, bringing a bold Sri Lankan seafood concept right into the financial heart of London felt poetically fitting.
What did you want a London guest to understand about Sri Lankan food after their first meal at ISSO?
I want them to realise that Sri Lankan food isn't just "another style of curry". It’s a distinct, coastal culinary identity defined by ocean freshness, layered spice roasting, fresh coconut, citrus tempering, and incredible depth.
Going from a 16-seat restaurant to a 90-seat London opening is quite a leap. What part of the original ISSO were you determined to keep?
The uncompromised quality of our prawns and the warmth of genuine Sri Lankan hospitality. You can scale your seat count and square footage, but if you lose the obsession over fresh prawn sourcing and personal guest connections, you lose the soul of the restaurant.
You’ve worked in hospitality across several countries. What’s one thing London could learn from the way Sri Lanka eats?
The art of feasting and communal sharing. In Sri Lanka, eating is never an isolated, transactional event, it's interactive. You tear fresh roti with your hands, mix rice with different sambols and serve multiple gravies on your plate to create your own flavour balance, and share dishes across the table.
If ISSO becomes the global Sri Lankan food brand you imagine, what do you hope people will say it introduced them to?
I hope people say ISSO introduced the world to the true glory of Sri Lankan seafood culture. That we proved Sri Lankan cuisine belongs on the global culinary map, and that we did it with authenticity, pride and incredible passion.
