Rotisserie Reimagined: How TOUM is Leading London’s Chicken Revival
- James Massoud
- 3 days ago
- 3 min read
In the heart of Mayfair, where foodie trends often take flight, a new contender has emerged, championing a dish both humble and revered: rotisserie chicken. TOUM, a Lebanese rotisserie restaurant, is at the forefront of London’s growing affection for this classic fare, blending traditional techniques with modern flair — and proving that the future of rotisserie lies not in supermarkets, but in the hands of visionary chefs.
The Rotisserie Renaissance
Once relegated to convenient takeaways or supermarket counters, rotisserie chicken is enjoying a serious glow-up in London. The capital has witnessed a rise in bistros and rotisserie-led menus — from the glossy Poulet Bicyclette at Bouchon Racine to the Burgundy birds spinning at Bébé Bob. Michelin starred chefs are taking note. According to a recent FT piece, rotisserie’s "return to relevance" signals a wider revival of French bistro techniques, retooled for London’s appetite for flavour-packed, unfussy food.
Add to that the boom in fried chicken takeaway joints — like Coqfighter — and it’s clear: Londoners are craving comfort, but elevated.
TOUM taps into this movement with a deeper story. The name — meaning garlic in Arabic — nods to the pungent, velvety Lebanese sauce traditionally served with grilled meats. But here, toum isn’t just a condiment: it’s the concept.
Where France Meets Lebanon
Opened in late 2024 by French-Lebanese restaurateur Tarek Farah — who also runs Aline Lebanese Kitchen around the corner — TOUM is a tribute to the shared culinary heritage of his two cultures. Lebanon’s 20th-century history as part of the French Mandate provides the connective tissue: a moment in time where French culinary structure met Levantine generosity and flavour.
The rotisserie birds are the headline act. Sourced and brined in-house with a punchy blend of rosemary, thyme, lemon, garlic, honey and spice, the chickens are then air-dried for 24 hours and cooked to order in a gleaming Rotisol oven imported from France. The result? Golden, lacquered skin, and meat so tender it practically slides off the bone. The quarter-portion Poules Frites is ideal for a speedy Mayfair lunch, while whole birds make for a celebratory sharing dish, best drenched in toum or spicy chimichurri, or Café de Paris butter to provide a contemporary twist to the classic.
But to view TOUM as a one-dish concept would be to miss the point. This is rotisserie reimagined — and the supporting cast of plates are just as expressive.
More Than Just Chicken
TOUM’s menu plays to the rhythm of the Mediterranean table — abundant, generous, and designed to share. Small plates bring Musakhan rolls with pulled chicken, caramelised onion and sumac to deliver a Levantine punch, alongside crisp flatbreads with heritage tomato and toum for authentic flavour.
Larger dishes offer even further range: the standout Samké Harra, a North Lebanese classic of sea bass with tahini, spicy walnut and coriander sauce, is a must-try. Vegetarians are well catered for too, with the roasted aubergine dressed in herb salad, fatteh yoghurt, pomegranate seeds, toasted markook bread and pine nuts. Sides — like spicy corn and a punchy tomato and onion salad — are ideal rotisserie companions.
Finish with soft-serve in ever-changing seasonal flavours (rose loukoum and pistachio, for example), or opt for a rich chocolate mousse or glossy tarte tatin if you’re going full French.
A Restaurant That Glows
TOUM’s corner site on pedestrianised Pollen Street feels like a secret — just steps from the chaos of Oxford Street, yet worlds apart. The interiors, designed by Gundry Ducker, echo Parisian bistro chic with Lebanese warmth: burgundy walls, glowing glass lampshades, and a honey-yellow countertop that glows like the Levantine sun.
Diners can perch along the counter with full view of the spinning birds or settle into a bistro-style table at the front. There’s also a heated terrace for those craving a Café Trottoir vibe, even in winter.
Downstairs, a new chapter is being written with ENCORE — TOUM’s soon-to-open listening bar. Blending the energy of Beirut’s party scene with the vinyl culture of Tokyo and the jazz intimacy of Rio, the low-lit room will offer hi-fi music, experimental cocktails by Lebanese mixologist Jad Ballout, and elegant bar snacks like fried chicken with crème fraîche and caviar.
The New Comfort
TOUM is part of a wider food moment in London — a yearning for the comfort of slow-cooked meats, heritage recipes, and soulful hospitality, but redefined for a modern palate. And rotisserie, with its blend of nostalgia and technique, is the perfect vehicle.
As rotisserie chicken continues to gain popularity, establishments like TOUM play a pivotal role in redefining perceptions of this classic dish. By marrying heritage with innovation, they offer diners a taste of the familiar, elevated to new heights.
By bringing the fire of Beirut and the finesse of Paris to London’s rotisserie scene, TOUM isn’t just keeping pace with a trend. It’s leading it.
