From humble beginnings in the bustling kitchen of Brick Lane's City Spice to running one of London’s most celebrated Indian restaurants, Niaz Caan's journey is a masterclass in blending tradition with innovation. Paro, his culinary tribute to Calcutta, is more than just a restaurant — it's a creative expression of heritage, modern dining, and bold flavours. In this exclusive interview with The Knife, he opens up about the influences that shaped his unique vision, from family spice blends and Calcutta street food to innovative cocktails and award-winning menus. Dive into the story behind the man that’s redefining Indian cuisine in London.
You’ve had an amazing journey from starting in the kitchen at City Spice to opening Paro. How has that transition shaped you as a chef and restaurateur?
Starting at City Spice at such a young age gave me a deep understanding of traditional Indian cuisine while instilling a strong work ethic. I'll be honest, working in a kitchen alongside some strong personalities as a baby-faced teen came with its challenges, but I’m grateful for the experience. It taught me how to take control of a kitchen and ensure the food we serve is fantastic. Transitioning to Paro allowed me to build on those foundational skills, experimenting with contemporary culinary concepts while creating a menu that’s more of a tribute to my mother. Paro is my creative outlet, where I merge tradition with modern techniques, allowing me to grow not just as a chef but as a visionary restaurateur. It’s about pushing boundaries while staying true to the essence of soulful food, which made City Spice so successful.
Paro has been described as a "love letter" to Calcutta's cuisine. What elements of Calcutta’s food culture did you want to highlight in your menu?
Calcutta’s culinary heritage is a blend of Mughal, British, and Bengali influences. At Paro, I wanted to highlight that diversity – featuring everything from the city’s famed street foods (like our samosas and potato chops) to its more elaborate dishes, such as slow-cooked lamb shank and Paro Bengali Butter Chicken. We source as much as possible from British farmers, like using Welsh lamb, ensuring quality produce in my vision of capturing the essence of Calcutta in London. The menu also incorporates my family’s 48-spice mix, which originates from my great-grandfather in West Bengal. It’s our way of bringing soulful flavours to the table.
City Spice has a rich history in Brick Lane, and now Paro is a hotspot in Covent Garden. How do the vibes and experiences at these two restaurants differ for diners?
City Spice is deeply rooted in tradition (it opened in 1986), and its atmosphere reflects that. It’s warm, familiar, and has the authentic charm of Brick Lane – a bustling space that captures the soulful food and excellent service that defined Brick Lane's heyday. Paro, on the other hand, offers a more modern, contemporary dining experience. The setting, menu, and service at Paro are designed to provide a fresh take on Indian cuisine. While both restaurants celebrate Indian food, City Spice is about comfort and tradition, whereas Paro reimagines that heritage in a youthful, contemporary context.
The use of a 48-spice mix in your dishes is a signature element at Paro. Can you share the inspiration behind such a complex spice blend?
The 48-spice blend is a family recipe passed down through generations. It’s a way of honouring my heritage and the attention to detail that traditional Indian cooking requires. Each spice adds its own dimension, whether it is warmth, sweetness, or heat. At Paro, I wanted to showcase this complexity in an approachable yet distinct way. It's a tribute to the rich, layered flavours of Indian cuisine. Currently, only five people know the exact spice mix – and I’m sure there’s four generations of bad karma waiting if I ever revealed it!
What inspired you to pair Indian food with creative cocktails like the “Dadi Daiquiri” and the “Jab We Met Martini”? How do you think they enhance the dining experience at Paro?
Indian cuisine is incredibly diverse in flavours, and I saw an opportunity to pair that with drinks that could enhance the experience. The “Dadi Daiquiri” and “Jab We Met Martini” are playful yet thoughtful creations, incorporating Indian twists on classic cocktails. For instance, we use our spiced Paro sugar syrup and homemade grenadine with subtle spices to create refreshing and distinct takes on familiar drinks. These cocktails add another layer of depth to the dining experience, making it more memorable and exciting.
Both City Spice and Paro have earned significant acclaim, with Paro winning the prestigious Restaurant of the Year award. What do you believe sets your restaurants apart in London’s competitive food scene?
I believe it’s our commitment to authenticity, combined with a willingness to innovate. At City Spice, we were among the first to introduce an all-vegan menu on Brick Lane, which set us apart. Paro offers a fresh take on Indian cuisine, blending tradition with modernity. We focus on quality; from the ingredients we source to the presentation and service. I’m proud that these awards are a tribute to my team’s hard work, and I prioritise their well-being through team-building activities like sports and team meals and company days out, which have helped slash staff turnover. This translates to great service and a positive dining experience.
You returned to cooking after earning a first-class degree in Economics. How do you think your academic background influences your approach to managing your restaurants?
My Economics degree has been invaluable on the business side of running restaurants. It taught me the importance of efficiency, scaling, and resource management. I apply those principles to everything from sourcing ingredients to streamlining the customer experience and reducing spare capacity to manage wage costs in these challenging times. Understanding market dynamics and consumer behaviour helps me stay competitive. But cooking is my true passion, and combining both worlds gives me a holistic approach to running my restaurants. Honestly, I couldn’t see myself doing anything else.
Paro’s location in the heart of Covent Garden, near the Lyceum Theatre, attracts a lot of pre-theatre diners. How do you design your menu and service to cater to this crowd?
We offer a dedicated pre-theatre menu that’s both flavourful and efficient, allowing diners to enjoy a satisfying meal without feeling rushed. The focus is on 'hand-cooked' curries, which are prepared in large, authentic batches. This allows us to serve dishes quickly while maintaining Paro’s signature flavours. Our service is attentive and prompt, delivering a premium dining experience that accommodates guests’ time constraints before a show.
Winning two awards at the Asian Restaurant and Takeaway Awards must have been a huge honour. What do these accolades mean to you and your team?
It’s incredibly humbling to be recognised in such a prestigious way. These awards are a testament to the hard work and passion of my team at both City Spice and Paro. They validate the risks we’ve taken, the innovations we’ve introduced, and our commitment to authenticity. More than anything, it motivates us to keep pushing boundaries and offer the best possible dining experience. We hope to continue this momentum, but most importantly, we want diners to leave happy after visiting either restaurant.
The interiors of Paro have been noted as eye-catching. What was the vision behind the design, and how do you think it complements the dining experience?
The design of Paro was meant to reflect the elegance and vibrancy of a wealthy West Bengal home. We wanted to create a space that feels warm and inviting, yet modern and chic. The use of botanical reliefs, floral motifs, and natural textures ties back to Paro being a love letter to Calcutta. The materials are carefully sourced from the region itself – the wood comes from the Sundarbans, and the sandstone on the walls was crafted in West Bengal. This attention to detail ensures the space feels special, just like the food we serve.
Calcutta is known for its street food as much as its curries. How do you balance these traditional elements with a modern twist at Paro?
Street food is an integral part of Calcutta’s culinary scene, and I wanted to honour that without simply replicating it. We elevate traditional flavours using high-quality ingredients and modern presentation. For instance, our 48-spice mix adds a unique twist to dishes like our samosas, while the mango chickpea chaat retains street-style flavours but is plated in a way that reflects my Anglo-Indian upbringing. It’s about respecting the past while embracing the present – and, ultimately, paving the way for innovative Indian cuisine.
What’s next for you and your restaurants? Any upcoming projects or expansions you're excited about?
We’re always exploring new ways to grow. We’re considering expanding Paro, but much like buying a house, I won’t move forward unless I fall in love with the site. We’re also exploring ventures like store-ready chutneys, inspired by the much-loved chutney trays in our restaurants. But above all, I’m focused on ensuring that both restaurants continue to thrive and that we keep delivering exceptional experiences for our diners. Next year will see a refreshed and updated menu for City Spice, while also improving the menu at Paro with some new meats such as venison.