In the heart of London’s culinary scene, Neuza Leal stands as a beacon of cultural fusion and culinary mastery. Born and raised in Portugal with Cape Verdean roots, her journey from a young chef in the bustling banqueting kitchens of St Pancras Renaissance Hotel to Executive Chef of Bar Douro’s two vibrant locations is one of passion, perseverance, and innovation. With a deep respect for the rich traditions of Portuguese gastronomy and a commitment to telling stories through food, Neuza’s menus are a celebration of heritage, flavour, and authenticity.
In this exclusive interview with The Knife, she shares her inspirations, challenges, and vision for the future of Portuguese cuisine in London. Prepare to be immersed in a conversation that goes beyond the plate, revealing the heart and soul behind the dishes at Bar Douro.
Your culinary journey began in Portugal and has since taken you to some of London's most prestigious kitchens. What were the key moments or mentors that shaped your approach to cooking?
I did all my services in Portugal, but I really started my career here in the UK. I think the point that really helped me identify as the chef I am today was when I worked at One Aldwych Hotel. The Head Chef there at the time was really focused on standards, he was very knowledgable on products and great on seasonality. Most importantly, his techniques and mentoring really helped coach me into who I am today. One example I remember was one day I had a bad service, my sauces were not coming out well, so he called me off service. I was upset with myself about it, so at the end when I was ready to leave he was waiting for me just to reinforce that it was just a bad day, that it's fine. He told me he knew I could do better than that, which really lifted me up and helped build my character.
How did your upbringing in Portugal, with roots in Cape Verde, influence your culinary style and the types of dishes you’re drawn to create?
I was born and raised in Portugal, and my parents immigrated from Cape Verde so growing up I spoke two languages: Portuguese and Creole at home. That helped open my curiosity to different things and embrace that. That extends today to my interests in different food, different techniques and different flavours.
What motivated you to make the move to London, and how did the transition from Portugal to the UK impact your perspective on food and cooking?
In my last year at uni I got a place on an Erasmus programme in Barcelona. During my time in Barcelona I got to meet different people, from different continents. When I went back to Portugal after the programme finished, it was in my head that I wanted to keep growing and exploring, which made me land on London because it's such a multicultural city. I started applying to different jobs and interviewing, and it was when the Renaissance Hotel opened in St Pancras that I was offered the position of Commis Chef in the kitchens.
Portuguese cuisine is known for its simplicity and emphasis on quality ingredients. How do you balance traditional Portuguese flavours with the expectations of a diverse London audience at Bar Douro?
We really focus on what we have on our menus. There are some dishes that are fixed on the menu because people love them, but our specials board is where we can try more challenging dishes and allow people to feedback. What's always consistent though is the focus on ingredients – the quality and the sourcing.
Bar Douro is celebrated for its focus on Portuguese gastronomy. What are some lesser-known Portuguese ingredients or dishes that you’re passionate about introducing to your guests?
I really want to introduce offal. Most people associate fish with Portuguese cuisine, but Portuguese food often includes offal, and many London restaurants have succeeded in serving this. There's one Portuguese dish in particular I would like to introduce called cabidela. It's a chicken dish – usually a rooster – served with rice or potatoes; I prefer rice which gets thickened with the blood of the chicken. It's so rich and so smooth, and it's dishes like this I'm interested in where we can use the whole animal.
Can you share the creative process behind designing a menu that not only showcases Portuguese cuisine but also tells a story about its cultural and regional diversity?
For us, the first thing that comes to mind when we're developing a menu is the roots of the dish, a story behind the culture and diversity of Portugal, but it's not the story of of of the country itself. Our Bible to traditional Portuguese cuisine is by Maria de Lourdes Modesto, a former gastronomy writer and chef. She really pioneered Portuguese gastronomy, which is traditional and relives small stories. We also use our own personal experiences and expertise. Take the winemakers we work with for example. We visited one of our winemakers in Bairrada, who told us his mother would cook a whole fish overnight in a clay oven. It's always important for us to show our cultures and stories through our cooking.
Cape Verdean cuisine also has a rich heritage. Are there any Cape Verdean influences that you’ve incorporated into your dishes at Bar Douro, or are there plans to do so in the future?
Cape Verde used to be a Portuguese colony, so there are a lot of similarities there anyway, but at the moment we're not looking to introduce Cape Verdean influences.
In what ways do you think your diverse background has allowed you to approach Portuguese cuisine with a unique perspective?
My background has definitely made me more open and receptive to different ideas. I think my background helps me being really open to explore.
Food is often a reflection of identity. How do you see your personal and cultural identity expressed through your work at Bar Douro?
I think through a very relaxed focus on consistency, and being open to the idea that there's always space for improvement.
As Executive Chef overseeing two Bar Douro locations, how do you ensure consistency in quality while also fostering creativity among your team?
Even though I'm the Executive Chef, I'm still quite present in both kitchens. I make sure I still do services with my chefs, so I can see from their perspective as well. I work very close to my team, we work at least two to three times a week together. It's important that we are all on the same page, so communication is essential. I'm always available to them, and I like to spend time with them.
What challenges have you faced as a female chef in a male-dominated industry, and how have these experiences shaped your leadership style?
Mostly when I was a young chef, there's been cases of being underestimated. Feeling like I need to make more effort to prove myself. Even nowadays as an Executive Chef, I've had instances where people approach to offer their congratulations on the food, but will not see me and congratulate the male chef in the kitchen instead. My chefs are very supportive though, they would always redirect.
How do you stay inspired and continue to innovate while staying true to the traditional roots of Portuguese cuisine?
Focusing on products and always exploring. We travel a lot to Portugal, and we share different ideas.
With the growing interest in sustainable and locally-sourced ingredients, how do you incorporate these practices into your menus at Bar Douro?
Some specific products we'll source from Portugal, but all fresh produce is from here. We'd never source fish from Portugal, for example, because of the distance it has to travel.
Looking ahead, what are your aspirations for Portuguese cuisine in London, and how do you see Bar Douro contributing to this vision?
I would like to see more Portuguese restaurants in London. I would like to see more interest in Portuguese food, too. For example, one of the things is Iberico pork. The majority of people associate this to Spain. We have exactly the same, or maybe even better I'd say, in Portugal. Not many people know about things like this, and it's our job to bring these to light.
What advice would you give to aspiring chefs, particularly those looking to explore and elevate their cultural culinary traditions in a modern context?
For a growing chef or for anyone coming into the business, I would say keep focused and keep working hard. Don't give up, and try to learn from the good and the bad.
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