London’s culinary scene is about to experience a remarkable newcomer with the much-anticipated arrival of Kanpai Classic, an esteemed Japanese yakiniku restaurant renowned for its top-tier wagyu beef. Taking centre stage in an array of sumptuous dishes, guests will be able to sample wagyu in orders ranging from raw beef and sushi, to yakiniku, Kamameshi (rice dish), soup and more.
Opening its doors in September in the vibrant Soho district, Kanpai Classic seamlessly blends the time-honoured Japanese barbecue tradition with a contemporary flair. Founded by the visionary Soji Hiraide, who successfully revitalised a struggling eatery in Taipei, Kanpai Classic made history in Taiwan by introducing Australian wagyu back in 2003. The grand entrance into London will showcase a selection of up to 10 distinct cuts of premium aged wagyu, meticulously crafted by talented Head Chef Nicolo Bolognesi and Executive Chef Masatada Ogata. Guests can anticipate indulging in a lavish 14-course Omakase Menu and an unparalleled interactive grilling experience right at their table.
Restaurateur mastermind Soji Hiraide discusses with The Knife the brand's much-anticipated expansion to London’s vibrant Soho food scene and explains how the capital is going to get "its first proper taste" of wagyu beef.
Your Yakiniku restaurants have seen tremendous success in other locations. What inspired you to choose Soho in London for your next venture?
Kanpai Group has its roots in Taiwan and has also gone on to achieve great success in China, earning the support of diners across the board. We were delighted and very proud when our Shanghai location became the first yakiniku restaurant to receive a Michelin star. Our goal is to bring the deliciousness of wagyu to the world, and our venture into Western countries starts with the UK.
As one of the top 10 economies in the world and renowned for having some of the best restaurants globally, the UK – starting with its economic hub, London – was the perfect launchpad for our expansion. We chose Soho because it is such a vibrant and diverse area attracting both visitors and locals alike. With its high-end restaurants and hotels, it offers a mature and diverse culinary scene, making it the ideal location for Kanpai Classic.
Soho is known for its vibrant dining scene. How do you plan to differentiate Kanpai Classic from other restaurants in the area?
In the UK, wagyu is typically known for cuts like striploin and ribeye. Drawing on 20 years expertise in chilled aging and full utilisation of the entire cattle, we will introduce a novel dining experience to London, showcasing wagyu in a multitude of forms. Our menu, presented in an omakase style with dishes prepared at the diners’ table by highly skilled staff, will offer a unique culinary journey.
What unique challenges did you face in bringing your multi-million-pound restaurant empire to London, and how did you overcome them?
We have been preparing to enter the UK market since 2018. We initially targeted the Royal Exchange development in the City but unfortunately faced numerous challenges due to heritage restrictions. At the same time the pandemic further impacted our plans. As it was, the prevailing market conditions would actually help us as more great sites in prime locations became available. Thus, we were fortunate to secure a spot in the heart of Soho, facilitated by a Hong Kong landlord who is familiar with the Kanpai Group.
Could you share some insights into the design and ambiance of your upcoming Soho location? How does it reflect the Kanpai Classic brand?
Our interiors are the work of Hiroki Michishita, the Japanese commercial space designer responsible for all Kanpai Classic restaurants. The primary colour theme for our first London outpost is black, symbolising luxury, modernity and strength. It also creates a mysterious and refined atmosphere which is further enhanced by classical European touches such as mirrors and lighting. This adds a luxurious and glossy feel that complements Kanpai Classic’s culinary delights. Finally, our stone and brick walls, evoking traditional Japanese castles, exude nobility.
What aspects of Japanese culinary culture do you hope to introduce or highlight to London diners through your new restaurant?
Kanpai Classic London highlights three key Japanese culinary delights.
At the heart of our menu is wagyu. Taking centre stage in an array of dishes, from raw beef and sushi to soups and yakiniku, guests will be able to experience its entire range of flavours.
Kamameshi is an integral part of Japanese culture, with around 300 varieties or rice grown across the country. Kanpai Classic presents the traditional “kamameshi”, featuring a blend of ingredients and rice that honour Japan's focus on the natural flavours of ingredients.
Finally, sake has always been at the heart of our offering. My sister, Toshie, has been the pioneer and mastermind of sake promotion globally for many years and is on the frontline of various sake initiatives in Japan as a strategist, producer, lecturer, columnist and advisor. Her connections with various Japanese sake breweries have enabled us to feature a diverse and flavourful selection on our menu, allowing our guests to fully appreciate the distinctive qualities of Japanese sake. Our range is spearheaded by a selection from Japan’s multi-award winning Masuizumi Brewery. The first sake introduced by Kanpai Classic when it opened in 2005, Masuizumi’s floral, fruity notes pair beautifully with our dishes.
With sustainability being increasingly important, how does Kanpai Classic approach sourcing and utilising ingredients, especially premium cuts of meat?
Addressing the issue of food waste, Kanpai Group is at the forefront of fully utilising beef resources. We import whole cattle, using each part of the animal, thereby minimising waste and enhancing sustainability. Our strong partnerships with Japanese exporters allow us to select cattle according to our exact standards, ensuring consistent quality.
Your restaurants often incorporate innovative technology in dining experiences. Can you discuss any technological advancements we can expect at your Soho location?
At our Soho location, we are excited to introduce "charcoal grilling" technology, featuring smokeless grilling tables that are tailor-made for indoor use. This innovative setup utilises downward exhaust technology, which ensures efficient ventilation and significantly reduces any odours.
Furthermore, each table is presided over by a professional server, offering advice and recommendations, expertly managing the dining pace and performing tableside grilling. These skilled servers ensure that each dish is cooked to perfection, and in accordance with each individual guest’s preference.
As a successful entrepreneur in the culinary industry, what advice would you give to aspiring restaurateurs looking to enter the competitive London market?
It took nearly eight years from making our decision to launch in the UK to the actual opening. Finding a good location and navigating the application process presented higher entry barriers compared to opening in Asia. Offering a very different dining experience, as we do in our menu, is also key. And investing in experienced and knowledgeable staff should also be an absolute prerequisite.