Omar Allibhoy's fascination with cooking all started with a waft of sweet crème caramel, whipped up by his mother when he was just a boy. A moment of realisation hit, and eager to learn, he spent his childhood in the kitchen with his mother and aunts, studying the ways of authentic Spanish cuisine from the expert matriarchs.
It was clear to Omar that he wanted to be a chef, and as soon as he could, he went onto work in kitchens in Madrid, and not any old kitchens. Notably, he worked under the revered Ferran Adria at el Bulli (voted the best restaurant in the world six times in a row) and helped him open further restaurants. A move to London followed, and he worked in Pierre White’s Picasso and Gordon Ramsay’s Maze under Jason Atherton’s tenure – gaining experience, but all a while surprised by the lack of Spanish food in the capital.
What Omar really wanted to do though, was to spread the word about his beloved Spanish cuisine, and when the chance to open Tapas Revolution came about, he jumped at the opportunity. Fourteen years on, there are outposts up and down the country, and with several cookbooks under his belt, Omar is certainly spreading the word – and the taste – of his homeland.
Your earliest memories are of watching your mum in the kitchen – what did she cook, any standouts for you?
I loved everything my mum used to cook for the family: garlicky Swiss chard, her one-minute steaks flambeed with vermouth, cod in salsa verde, and to this day I still remember drinking the fruit and biscuit smoothies she made for me when I was only two or three years old. The food she cooked had a tremendous impact on my life – but above all, it was this creme caramel or “flan” as we call it in Spanish that she made in the small kitchen of the little attic that we used to live in. I was sitting on the floor watching her prepare it while she explained and showed me every step of the process. It was a very intense moment of joy and discovery for me, I’ll always remember that sweet smell of caramel.
Where did you learn and train to become a chef?
I learnt at home mostly, from my mum and aunts who are terrific cooks, reading books and trying recipes in the evenings and weekends. My mum always says I was the Head Chef of the home from very young. I loved making dinner for the family and more special dishes for the weekends and family gatherings. I also started working from very young as I had a clear career path in mind and had the privilege of working with fantastic chefs at the Intercontinental Hotel in Madrid and with Ferran Adria in el Bulli, and went on to help him open three restaurants. I then moved to London and worked for Pierre White at his restaurant Picasso, and Jason Atherton while he was Head Chef for Gordon Ramsay’s Maze restaurant; from this point, I developed my own style of cooking and grew from there.
What inspired the move to the UK, and what were your first impressions of the Spanish food scene?
I wanted to learn English while working in kitchens and have an adventure. When I first arrived, I remember being so shocked that Brits didn’t know much about Spanish cuisine, especially given that 18 million travel to Spain every year (and the opposite of what happens with other countries of your favourite cuisines like India, China, Thailand, Japan and Italy). It was then that I decided to start working on that and spread the word about Spanish cuisine.
Which dishes have shaped your life?
That creme caramel I mentioned has to be one of them. There’s also Basque Cod throat known as al pil pil that’s special to me, I love its subtle flavour and delicate texture, and paella, not only is it delicious but it brings all the family together.
Did that lead to your founding Tapas Revolution?
Undoubtedly. There was an opportunity to open traditional tapas bars up and down the country that was done well, with great produce, at affordable prices and I took up the challenge!
What are the principles of Spanish cookery and how are you keeping them alive?
Spanish cuisine has many different facets. A cornerstone is our very seasonally led diet, and another is the mix of many cultures; Spain was a land roamed by the original Iberians, then Phoenicians who came from the North of what we know as Europe today, Romans and Carthaginians, then the Moors settled, and results in defined localised cuisines that change drastically from region to region. Of course, the different soils and climates across the areas affect the produce and make them even richer.
More than styles, techniques or ways of cooking certain dishes though, to me at the heart of Spanish cuisine is the respect of the produce, we treat it with care, and let it shine. The Spanish say our nation is the wealthiest in the world, not in monetary terms but in our cultural wealth and especially our gastronomy. Cooking remains a fundamental part of our lifestyle and luckily the younger generations want to carry on this legacy.
Anything to mention - anything new in the pipeline?
My latest cookbook is now out, called Paella by Quadrille. If you want to join my cookery courses in my kitchen, or buy any Spanish ingredients and get them delivered to your home, or if you need catering services they can find all the information on my website.
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