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Writer's pictureFelicity Carter

No fads, no foam, just excellent fish: A conversation with Nathan Outlaw

With his seafood skills and Michelin stars, you might be fooled into thinking that Nathan Outlaw grew up on the coast, but it all started in Kent, where his dad instilled a strong cheffing work ethic from a young age. Having learnt the ways of a professional kitchen – including hard work and teamwork – he was ready for a London kitchen and started with Peter Kromberg at the InterContinental London Park Lane. Positions followed alongside Gary Rhodes and Eric Chavot, then as the noughties hit so did a significant move, and a career trajectory moment, as Cornwall came a-callin'.  

 

Here, he worked with Rick Stein – who remains a good pal to this today – and then onto two Michelin starred restaurant, Lords of the Manor in Cheltenham. With a few years under his belt and experience garnered in fine dining settings, Cornwall lured him back, and just over 20 years ago, he opened his debut restaurant, the Black Pig in Rock, which focussed on quality produce, championing locality (a trait of Outlaw’s).

 

On a roll, Restaurant Nathan Outlaw in Fowey opened a couple of years later, and in 2010 it was named the 10th best restaurant in the country by the Good Food Guide, and a year later, was awarded a second Michelin star, the only specialised fish restaurant in the UK to be accredited. Now, his portfolio includes Michelin starred Outlaw’s New Road which pays homage to seafood from the Cornish waters and Outlaw’s Fish Kitchen which’s set in a 15th century fishermen’s cottage that offers more original seafood fare, both in Port Isaac; and casting his net into hospitality, he also presents Outlaw’s Guest House (conveniently opposite Outlaw’s New Road) and Coastal Retreats, that are ideal for getaways, tailored to the epicureans.





  • You experienced working kitchens from a young age — what did you learn most from your dad and that environment?


I get my work ethic from my dad. He taught me that if you want something you have to work hard for it.  Working with him when I was very young also showed me how a professional kitchen relies on teamwork. I loved the camaraderie and banter then, and I still do. Oh, and he also instilled in me the need to look after your knives!


  • How did your affinity with the sea and love of seafood come about?


My first ‘real’ job was at the Intercontinental Hotel on Hyde Park Corner working alongside chefs from all over the world. They showed me that cooking fish was more than the traditional ‘fish and chips’ that I’d grown up with. I came to realise that seafood cookery is versatile and exciting. At the time, Rick Stein was at his height and on TV virtually every day cooking fish his way, so I got on the train to Cornwall and asked for a job. The rest is history!


  • Who have been your mentors and what did you learn from them?


I’d say my dad and Rick. Mind you, I’ve learnt something from every chef I’ve ever worked with, whether it’s been how to do something well… or not, as the case maybe! And I’m still learning now…





  • How would you sum up your cooking style and how has it evolved over the years?


Simple, but with complex flavour combinations. Simplicity means there’s nowhere to hide; if an ingredient is at its best, you don’t need heavy sauces or fads and foams. I’m lucky to be able to work with the very best seafood and produce available in the UK, and my aim is to showcase them to the best of my ability. 


  • What cookery techniques do you use?


I was classically trained, and I still draw on that training in my cooking every day. I’d say my techniques are classical with modern twists.  

 

We’ve recently been lucky enough to have tuna landed off the coast of Cornwall. This has been really exciting; just the size of them in our small kitchen is a challenge in itself! I’ve bought a dry ager to help with the preparation of the tuna for the table. And I’ve been working with TOG knives too, who’ve been able to furnish me with a beautiful sashimi knife to carve the tuna with properly. It’s been great experimenting with a new species for me and seeing what we can do with it. Every part of the fish is used. I hate waste!


  • What would you say is the key to cooking seafood?


Keep your knives sharp. Get the freshest and best quality ingredients you can afford. Keep it simple.  Get everything else that’s going on the plate ready before you cook the fish. Fish is the ultimate convenience food; it cooks really quickly!





  • How do you go about sourcing your produce, and any particular favourites?


All our seafood is caught from day boats off the Cornish coast, and most of the produce we use is grown within a few miles of the restaurants. I’ve spent a long time building up relationships with local fishermen, growers and producers – they are as passionate about what they do as I am.

 

The coast around Port Isaac is rocky and that means it’s a great area for lobsters and crabs, and the supplier I’ve been working with longest is fisherman Callum Greenhalgh. I’ve been taking lobsters and crabs from him since 2003. He knows exactly what I’m looking for and never disappoints. He’s passionate about what he does and goes out alone in his boat to get the best lobsters and crabs available. He also takes part in the National Lobster Hatchery scheme to replenish lobster stocks here, meaning that there will always be a plentiful supply.


  • What do you love most about British seafood?


Variety, quality, versatility. The number of species we now have around our coastal waters is quite amazing. The quality is the best in the UK (if not the world) and because of the variety of seafood available to me, I’m able to create a never-ending array of dishes.


  • You’ve welcomed a new project, the Outlaw’s Guest House – how did that come about, and how long was it in the making?


When my wife, Rachel and I bought Outlaw’s New Road, we’d always thought it would be good to be able to offer accommodation too. There was a small hotel right across the road which we thought would be ideal, but we couldn’t afford it at the time. Out of the blue, in 2021, I was approached by the owner who was looking for a buyer and we decided to take the plunge and go for it, despite being in the middle of the Covid pandemic. It was a very quick turnaround and a massive learning curve; we’re still tweaking things here and there but people seem to like it so we must be doing something right!





  • Tell us about the foodie getaways and the offering?


We run our foodie getaways year-round, giving our guests the option to have the ‘ultimate Outlaw’s experience’. We run a few different options throughout the year, but our most popular time, believe it or not, is winter. From November to March, we run our ‘Winter Foodie Getaway’, which consists of a two-night stay at our Guest House, breakfast, afternoon bakes and dinner at both Outlaw’s New Road and Outlaw’s Fish Kitchen. We’re able to make the prices more attractive this time of year which helps, but it also gives us the opportunity to show that Cornwall is a wonderful place to visit any time of the year.


  • What would be your last supper?


I’d go for simple mackerel barbecued over woodfire, served with fresh, crusty bread and butter, and a simple tomato salad. That would be followed by traditional English trifle and clotted cream. Or maybe rhubarb crumble. It would depend on the time of year!


  • Finally, with all this on the boil, how do you maintain your drive?


I love what I do. I cook even when I’m not at work. And I really get a kick from seeing people enjoy my food.






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