Britalian Cuisine, Gastropub Glory, and Culinary Integrity: A conversation with Chef Patron Dave Wall, The Unruly Pig

From topping the Estrella Damm UK Top 50 Gastropubs list to earning three coveted AA Rosettes, The Unruly Pig has become one of Britain's most celebrated dining destinations. At its helm is Chef Patron Dave Wall, whose deep respect for seasonal Suffolk produce and Italian-inspired simplicity underpins the restaurant’s bold "Britalian" identity. In this exclusive interview, Wall shares the philosophy, people, and passion driving The Unruly Pig’s ongoing success — and why staying "unruly" is key to standing out.

Dave Wall (left) and Karl Green

• The Unruly Pig has been celebrated for its innovative blend of seasonal British ingredients with Italian influences. Can you share the inspiration behind this fusion and how your personal experiences have shaped this culinary direction?

The original concept for this was borne of Unruly Pig owner and my business partner Brendan Padfield’s love of Italian food and a wish to have a differentiator when we were setting out and deciding what The Unruly Pig would ‘be about’. For me it was really a learning curve as most of my culinary training was steeped in classical French technique – and it took a good few years to drum that out of me! But I love the Italian ethos of showcasing great ingredients simplistically and it’s at the heart of all of my favourite dishes these days.

• Achieving the title of the UK's Best Gastropub multiple times is a remarkable feat. How do you and your team maintain consistency and excellence in your offerings to continually earn such accolades?

A huge factor has been maintaining consistency within the team. My head chef and great friend, Karl Green has been with us for nearly the entire time we’ve been open (over nine years), our senior sous Corin Troung for nearly eight years and beyond that we have another three members of the kitchen team who have been with us over seven years, and then a further three who are over three years. That longevity breeds familiarity with one another, which leads to consistency. When you spend more time with your ‘work family’ than you do with your actual family you get to understand how one another are thinking and feeling and performing that day, and then you've got each other’s backs.  

• The recent addition of a third AA rosette is a testament to your exceptional food quality. How has this recognition influenced your approach to menu development and guest experience?

The AA have been tremendously helpful over the years as they always offer transparent and unbiased feedback after their visits. Taking on feedback and learning from it is a critical tool for continuous development, which is a core mantra for us, and I believe it should be for any business. Menu development is a key part of our daily routine – Karl and I trial and test every dish with much rigour and tasting, and won’t put anything on until we’re really happy with it. 

Having three rosettes and being number one in the Estrella Damm UK Top50 list does hold a pressure; when people come to dine with you, they have an expectation that you will deliver a great experience, and it is important that we deliver that. Therefore, we never risk serving a dish that we’re not happy with. But we love developing dishes and nearly everyday we're working on something new.

Iberico pork, roasted garlic, lardo and pancetta dressing, rosemary and garlic potatoes

• What draws you to the ingredients you use, and how do you ensure they stand out on the plate?

We have an abundance of fantastic suppliers in the region who provide us with stunning ingredients which we love using. This is at the heart of our Britalian ethos – showcasing beautiful seasonal produce. Less is more to make them stand out – the longer I get in the tooth and the more we develop our style the less we feature on the plate – keeping it simple to really showcase the ingredients.

• How do local Suffolk ingredients inspire your culinary creations, and can you provide examples of dishes that highlight this local bounty?

As mentioned, we have an abundance of great suppliers. We buy the majority of our beef from The Rare Breed Meat Company – who although technically are based in Essex they source their meat from a network of traditional farmers across Essex and Suffolk, and as the name would suggest they specialise in rare traditional breeds. Their beef is absolutely knockout and is always a best seller here.

• Your culinary journey includes experiences with renowned chefs and establishments. How have these experiences influenced your cooking style and the ethos you bring to The Unruly Pig?

Naturally as a young chef training through the ranks you grow up with influences from your mentors. But having spent 10 years here at The Pig I guess I’m less influenced by those chefs these days, but we’re always interested in what our peers in the gastropub industry are doing. Being a part of the Estrella Damm UK Gastropub list has introduced us to so many fantastic operators across the nation and we learn so much from them all.

Roast pork loin with crispy crackling

• The Unruly Pig offers a "Be Unruly" tasting menu that showcases your culinary creativity. How do you balance innovation with tradition when curating this menu, and what can guests expect from this dining experience?

By and large I think it’s important to keep flavour combinations on dishes identifiable for most, so that even if people are trying a dish for the first time they might be able to identify with some of the ingredients and flavour profiles being used. But the real trump card in delivering this is down to the service – having well trained and informed staff that can chat to the guests appropriately and make them feel at ease.

• Incorporating Italian elements into your dishes reflects a shared love for Italy between you and owner Brendan Padfield. How do you decide which Italian techniques or ingredients to integrate into your British-based menu?

I love reading old Italian cookbooks, ideally that don’t feature many photos or visual reference and taking dishes and converting them to our own interpretations with our own spin. Italians are stereotypically traditionalists and I’m sure many a ‘nonna’ would be spinning in their graves with our quasi-blasphemic interpretations!

• The Unruly Pig has been praised for its ambiance, blending the charm of a traditional pub with modern touches. How do you believe the restaurant's atmosphere complements your culinary offerings?

I am a firm believer in having an identity, a differentiator and your own style so you have something that stands you out from the crowd. Sometimes that can mean being a tad more controversial or at least less beige. It starts with the feel and the decor: Brendan is a lover of art and much of his quirky collection adorns the walls, which feature some of his equally ‘quirky’ paint colour selections (one of our rooms is bright electric pink!). The food offering should follow; whilst we’re certainly a lot less quirky there we have our Britalian differentiator. Beyond that we then need to deliver what we set out by ensuring we do a great job of cooking and serving the food with warmth and friendliness.

Lobster spaghetti

• Sustainability is becoming increasingly important in the culinary world. How does The Unruly Pig approach sustainable practices in sourcing ingredients and designing menus?

We always like to try and utilise every part of every ingredient to maximise the flavour we can gain from our food with minimal waste.

• With the evolving landscape of British gastronomy, how do you see the role of gastropubs like The Unruly Pig influencing the future of dining in the UK?

I think the gastropub will only become more important, not least in today’s current financial climate where for so many people highest-end restaurants are becoming just too out-of-reach. Right now, many people are really feeling the pinch, and this is a great opportunity for gastropubs to widen their appeal as they can offer great food at a more approachable and accessible price point.

• Reflecting on your journey with The Unruly Pig, what have been some of the most rewarding moments, and how do you envision the future of the place under your leadership?

I’ve been blessed and privileged to have experienced many rewarding moments – topping the Estrella Damm UK Gastropub list three times really being the pinnacle for us! I hope we can encourage Brendan to put his feet up a bit more. And despite the financial challenges of the government’s impending budget of doom, we hope we can look at growing the business in the future – maybe some accommodation perhaps. But above all else I want to have an environment whereby our team can continue to develop, grow and flourish. I love seeing their progression and passion.

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