A Taste of Homecoming: Chef Ben Watson’s Culinary Journey at The Golden Ball
- James Massoud
- Apr 29
- 6 min read
In the heart of the Stonor Valley, nestled among rolling hills and ancient woodlands, lies The Golden Ball — a gastropub that defies expectations while paying homage to tradition. With its inviting warmth and rustic charm, this may appear to be just another countryside pub, but step inside, and you’ll find a dining experience shaped by Michelin starred precision, global inspiration, and a profound respect for locality. At the helm is Chef Ben Watson, whose culinary journey from London’s high-octane kitchens to the serene valleys of Henley-on-Thames has redefined what it means to cook with both heart and heritage.
From Michelin Starred Kitchens to a Countryside Dream
Ben's journey is punctuated by some of the most illustrious names in the culinary world — Jason Atherton, Gordon Ramsay, and Clare Smyth, to name a few. His years in London’s bustling fine-dining scene honed his craft, teaching him the importance of discipline, creativity, and, above all, respect for the finest produce.
"Working with these chefs has undoubtedly influenced the way I cook and my approach to food," Ben reflects. "Most places I have worked have really focused on getting the best produce and not messing about with it too much, and that's definitely something I have focused on here."
Ben's humility belies the intensity of his career, which included three years at Core by Clare Smyth, where he contributed to the restaurant’s journey toward its third Michelin star—a coveted accolade awarded just two months after his departure.
"Being in a kitchen that is pushing for three stars is fairly uncommon, and it’s a good mix of scary and exciting," he admits. "The pressure to be constantly improving your work is much higher than the pressure of retaining standards once you have won the three stars."
It’s that relentless pursuit of improvement that Ben has carried with him to The Golden Ball, though his goals now are more personal: creating a profitable, sustainable business without compromising on his culinary vision.
A Fusion of Heritage and Innovation
The Golden Ball's menu is a reflection of Ben's personal journey — a marriage of classic French technique with bold, aromatic Indian influences. This creative fusion stems not only from Ben's professional growth but also from his partnership with his wife, Priya, whose heritage has opened his eyes to an entirely new world of flavour.
"I grew up eating Indian food from the local curry house and yes, I always loved it, but never realised how complex and different it could be until the first time I travelled to India to meet my wife’s family," Ben recalls. "Eating authentic Indian food had a profound effect on me, and from then on, I started really trying to learn everything I could with the help of my wife."
The result is a menu that pays tribute to both backgrounds — where venison shoulder might be paired with warming spices, or where a delicate British fish dish is elevated with subtle Indian aromatics. However, Ben is quick to emphasise that his use of spices is never gratuitous.
"I don’t use spices on every dish as sometimes it’s not appropriate, and I don’t want to use the flavours gratuitously. But it has become something of a trademark of our cooking style, and you will normally find about half of the dishes have a nod towards Priya’s heritage."
Rooted in Seasonality and Sustainability
Leaving London’s frenetic pace for the tranquility of the countryside wasn’t just a lifestyle change; it was a culinary revelation. The Stonor Valley’s rich bounty of local produce, game, and award-winning cheeses has become the backbone of Ben's menu, where seasonality isn’t just a philosophy — it’s a necessity.
"Ever since moving to the countryside, using local and seasonal produce has been a bit of a no-brainer," he explains. "We are very lucky to have some amazing suppliers, and the quality of ingredients is really second to none."
This devotion to locality and freshness finds its voice in the dishes themselves, where each plate reads like a seasonal diary of the valley. Starters such as the pan-roasted Loch Duart salmon — served with pickled cucumber, seaweed, salmon roe, a silky beurre blanc, and the citrusy zing of Buddha’s hand — exemplify Ben's deft touch with both texture and balance. The beetroot dish, pairing red and white varieties with creamy goat’s curd, hazelnuts, beetroot oil, and a lovage vinaigrette, is earthy and elegant — a celebration of simplicity elevated by technique.
Mains show the true breadth of Ben's culinary language. The roasted saddle and confit shoulder of local lamb is a standout: boldly seasoned yet harmonised by Mediterranean notes of feta and red pepper-tomato fondue, with crispy cumin potatoes bringing crunch and spice. Equally striking is the cod fillet, whose Indian-inspired accents — ‘potato chat’, saag sauce, monks beard pakora, and mint-coriander chutney — meld seamlessly with the fish’s delicate flake, showcasing the signature Indo-British fusion that defines The Golden Ball’s menu.
"At the moment we have a lovely dish that uses some beautiful local fallow deer paired with rhubarb which is bang in season, a slow cooked venison shoulder and potato terrine, and some beautiful purple kale which is just coming to the end of its season," shares Ben. "The menu changes as and when new products come into season and I really enjoy the flexibility that gives me. Whole animal butchery became far more important by necessity at first, but by now it has become a main pillar of my style."
And then there’s dessert: The Golden Ball, a chocolate sphere filled with malt mousse and paired with salted caramel sauce and hazelnut ice cream, offers not just indulgence but a playful nod to the pub’s name. It’s a showstopper in both form and flavour, and the perfect finale to a meal that speaks eloquently of its place, its people, and the chef’s unique point of view.
Redefining the Gastropub Experience
Ben and Priya’s vision for The Golden Ball wasn’t always a straightforward one. Opening a gastropub, with its inherent expectations of traditional pub fare, posed a creative challenge.
"We were unsure about the idea of a pub because we felt we would have to cook certain things in order to appease people who have a set idea of what a pub should sell," Ben admits. "We took the risk and decided we were going to serve the food we wanted to… and luckily, we were right!"
The Golden Ball’s menu steers clear of conventional pub staples — except for its revered Sunday roast, which Ben insists remains a "non-negotiable." Instead, diners can expect dishes that blur the lines between comfort and innovation, all while maintaining the laid-back charm of a countryside pub.
"I recently saw someone define a gastropub as somewhere you could have a fantastic meal or still nip in for a pint, and I think we definitely fit into that category."
A Homecoming with Purpose
For Ben, returning to Henley was more than just a geographical move — it was a homecoming that allowed him to reconnect with his roots while creating something distinctly his own.
"I did grow up in the area, so in some ways it does feel like coming back home, and the response from the local community has been fantastic," he says. "The slower pace of living in the countryside very much complements the ambiance we wish to create and helps us create a slightly more laid-back feeling to the place."
That authenticity — the sense of belonging both to the land and to his craft — is what makes The Golden Ball more than just a gastropub. It’s a culinary love letter to tradition, innovation, and the power of finding home in both food and place.
As Ben continues to evolve, so too does The Golden Ball — a testament to a chef who isn’t chasing stars, but rather a deeper connection with his ingredients, his heritage, and his community. And in that pursuit, he’s crafted something far more enduring than accolades: a dining experience that feels both personal and profound, right in the heart of the English countryside.
