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The Rise of the Bistropub

Writer's picture: James MassoudJames Massoud


The Oarsman
The Oarsman


In recent years, the UK's dining landscape has seen a notable rise in bistropubs — establishments that blend the relaxed ambiance of traditional pubs with the culinary sophistication of bistros. So why are we seeing an increase in this trend? The Knife finds out.



The Village Pub
The Village Pub


 


Distinguishing Bistropubs from Gastropubs

Before we delve into the whys, it's probably best to begin with the whats: What exactly does distinguish a bistropub from a gastropub?


While both bistropubs and gastropubs aim to elevate the traditional pub experience, their distinctions lie in culinary inspiration and ambiance:


  • Gastropubs: Typically focus on upscale versions of classic British pub fare, such as gourmet fish and chips or artisanal pies, maintaining a traditional pub atmosphere.

  • Bistropubs: Offer menus with a broader, often European, influence, presenting dishes like confit duck or coq au vin in a setting that balances the casualness of a pub with the intimacy of a bistro.



The Crown
The Crown


 


Factors Driving the Bistropub Trend

The bistropub trend, firstly, caters to patrons seeking high-quality, diverse culinary experiences without the formality of fine dining – something that is on the increase. Bistropubs cater to this demand by offering refined, often internationally inspired menus in relaxed environments.


Another factor is that a significant portion of the population is reducing alcohol consumption. A survey revealed that nearly half of young people (43%) and a third of middle-aged Britons (32%) have stopped drinking alcohol, primarily due to health concerns and the influence of social media advocates. Bistropubs respond to this shift by emphasising quality food offerings alongside a curated selection of beverages, including a broader non-alcoholic range.


With the average price of a pint nearing £5 across the UK, many view traditional pub outings as less affordable these days. Bistropubs justify their pricing by providing a comprehensive dining experience, blending exceptional food with a welcoming pub atmosphere.



The White Hart
The White Hart


 


Notable Bistropubs in the UK

The Oarsman in Marlow, Buckinghamshire is one of the most notable contemporary bistropubs. It serves seasonal dishes from a Francophile kitchen, emphasising environmental sustainability and local sourcing.


The Oarsman offers a menu that harmoniously blends traditional British flavours with contemporary, European culinary techniques, providing a refined yet approachable dining experience.


Among the starters you will find options such as Chicken Liver Parfait, Brioche, Preserved Black Cherry, Pistachio – an elegant starter featuring a smooth chicken liver parfait accompanied by toasted brioche, complemented by the sweetness of preserved black cherries and the subtle crunch of pistachios. The combination of rich and sweet elements creates a balanced and indulgent beginning to the meal.


For mains, you'll discover the likes of Pork Chop, Haricot Beans, Morteau – a dish that presents a succulent pork chop paired with haricot beans, accompanied by morteau, a traditional smoked sausage from France.


These dishes reflect The Oarsman's commitment to delivering high-quality, flavourful meals that honour traditional British cuisine while embracing modern, Europeanised influences. The thoughtful combinations and attention to detail in each dish provide diners with a memorable and satisfying dining experience.



The Oarsman
The Oarsman


 


Interchangeable

The term "bistropub" is relatively new and not widely recognised in the UK. It appears increasingly to be used interchangeably with "gastropub," both describing establishments that combine high-quality food with a traditional pub setting. While gastropub is the more commonly accepted term, the concept remains the same: offering a dining experience that merges the casual atmosphere of a pub with the culinary standards of a restaurant. This interchangeability is becoming more evident, however, on the menus of establishments around the country.


Take The Crown at Bray for example. Nestled in the historic village of Bray in Berkshire, this place exemplifies the gastropub ethos by offering a menu that elevates traditional British dishes through high-quality ingredients and meticulous preparation. The menu features a variety of starters and mains that highlight classic pub fare with a refined touch, such as the classic Prawn Cocktail starter whereby succulent prawns are dressed in a tangy Marie Rose sauce, and served alongside fresh seeded sourdough bread. The prawn cocktail is a quintessential British appetiser, evoking a sense of nostalgia while showcasing the establishment's commitment to traditional flavours. And then of course you've got the Fish and Chips – a staple of British cuisine, this main course features crispy battered fish accompanied by crushed peas and a house-made tartar sauce. The dish exemplifies the gastropub's dedication to presenting elevated versions of classic pub fare. However, look a little closer at the menu and you'll start noticing bistropub fare… a Fish Soup starter with Rouille, Comte and Crouton, and even Steak Frites on Wednesdays where Onglet is the star of the show.


Another example comes from Fyfield in Oxfordshire, home to The White Hart, which strikes a masterful balance between the comforting traditions of a gastropub and the refined elegance of a bistropub. While its legendary Sunday roasts — featuring local roast beef with homemade creamed horseradish and its signature 12-hour slow-cooked Kelmscott pork belly — pay homage to classic pub fare, the à la carte menu showcases a more contemporary, chef-driven approach. A prime example of this evolution is the venison pavé, a dish that embodies both local provenance and modern culinary refinement. Sourced from English estates, the venison is served as a precisely cut pavé, its deep, gamey richness enhanced by silky pomme purée, smoked beetroot purée, caramelised parsnip, and a glossy red wine jus. This thoughtful presentation elevates a traditional British ingredient into something reminiscent of a high-end bistro dish. Similarly, the chateaubriand, a tender sharing cut of beef, maintains the pub’s hearty appeal while offering a more sophisticated dining experience.


In February 2024, owners Mark and Kay appointed Grahame Wickham as head chef, who brings a wealth of experience, having honed his culinary skills since the age of 15. He has appeared on MasterChef: The Professionals, reaching the quarter finals, and has also been a finalist in the last two National Chef of the Year competitions. “We are passionate about the provenance of our ingredients, using home-grown, vegetables, fruit and herbs from our own kitchen garden as well as sourcing from local farms and suppliers wherever possible,” says now executive chef, Mark. “We have wonderful produce right on our doorstep and we make the most of it and encourage

our chefs to forage in local woodlands and hedgerows for seasonal produce such as wild garlic in the spring and blackberries in the autumn. We also use responsibly sourced fish and seafood delivered daily from Cornwall.”


As a newcomer to the UK’s ever-evolving pub dining scene, The Village Pub in Barnsley currently embraces its identity as a gastropub, celebrating traditional British comfort food with a focus on quality ingredients and nostalgic flavours. Dishes like Jugged Beef and Carrot, Smoked Haddock Fish Cake, and Bangers & Mash with onion gravy stay true to the hearty, familiar essence of a classic pub, while offerings such as Godsell’s Double Gloucester and White Bloomer Ploughman’s and Jesse Smith’s Pork Pie reinforce its deep-rooted Cotswold charm.


However, the menu is already showing signs of a refined, bistropub-style evolution. Carefully considered dishes such as the Venison Carpaccio or the Ray Wing in Caper Butter elevate ingredients with a more delicate, technique-driven approach. Even the desserts strike a balance between the comforting and the sophisticated. While it remains a true gastropub at heart, The Village Pub’s menu is developing in a way that suggests it could, in time, transition into a bistropub, blending the warmth of traditional pub fare with the finesse of modern British dining. A sign of the times the journey many pubs across the UK are now beginning to take.






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