El Pirata: the Spanish soul of London that's never lost its warmth
- James Massoud
- Oct 24
- 3 min read
In a city obsessed with the next big opening, El Pirata is a rare thing – a restaurant that’s been quietly getting it right for more than three decades. Hidden down Down Street, a whisper away from Park Lane, this 31-year-old Mayfair institution has outlasted food trends, flashy launches, and fleeting hype, not through reinvention, but by staying true to what makes people return: honest cooking, good wine, and the kind of hospitality that feels like family. The Knife takes a deep dive into the London institution.
A slice of Madrid in Mayfair
Step inside and you’re transported somewhere far sunnier. Warm wood panelling, Picasso prints, clinking glasses, the hum of conversation – it could be a late lunch in Madrid. The front-of-house team, many of whom have been here for over twenty years, greet regulars by name and newcomers like old friends. It’s that continuity, rare in central London, that gives El Pirata its soul.
"El Pirata has always been about bringing the true spirit of Spain to Mayfair," says long-term patron José Rodrigues.
The food that built a following
El Pirata’s menu is a love letter to Spanish classics, the kind of dishes that don’t need rewriting. There’s jamón Ibérico sliced to order, croquetas with a perfect golden crust, and gambas al ajillo still sizzling in their earthenware dish. Padron peppers arrive charred, octopus with paprika and potato is tender and rich, while seafood paella comes with the kind of flavour that only comes from patience.
Nothing feels forced, nothing showy. Just clean, confident flavours – the kind London fell for 30 years ago and still hasn’t tired of. As Time Out once put it, "El Pirata is where the tapas are as good as the welcome."
And yet, for all its old-school comfort, the restaurant hasn’t stood still. Its recent collaboration with Spanish heavyweight José Pizarro – who created a limited-edition pork rib and Scottish girolle paella for World Paella Day – proves how deep El Pirata’s roots run in London’s Spanish food community, and how trusted this establishment is as a true representation of Spanish cuisine. As Pizarro himself put it: "London has a huge Spanish population and the culture – especially the food culture – is very strong. El Pirata and my London restaurants are part of that, and it’s a real pleasure to collaborate: we’re on the same team."
Hospitality with heart
Perhaps what truly keeps El Pirata thriving is the warmth of its service, that feeling of being looked after, not just served. Staff glide between tables with ease, topping up glasses, offering a word in Spanish, recommending a wine from their exceptional list – one of the most extensive all-Spanish cellars in the capital.
There’s no sense of Mayfair stiffness here. The atmosphere is informal, convivial, often loud in the best possible way. Upstairs, the chatter spills into the street-side terrace, where guests sip sangria and Rioja into the evening. Downstairs, in the low-lit dining room, it’s all laughter and late-night conversation over shared plates.
Built to last
In a restaurant landscape where so much comes and goes, El Pirata’s longevity feels almost radical. It doesn’t rely on gimmicks or reinvention; its secret is simply knowing who it is. The formula – authentic Spanish food, impeccable wine, and genuine hospitality – has barely changed since the 90s, and that’s precisely why it works.
El Pirata is a reminder of what dining out should be: generous, joyful, human. It’s where you go to unwind, to celebrate, or to simply eat well without pre-tense. And if you let it, it’ll make you fall in love with Spanish cooking all over again.
