Tom Cenci's career all started with an internship at Cliveden Hotel in Taplow, Buckinghamshire while he was undertaking his studies, and as a Michelin starred establishment, he was thrown right in at the deep end.
With a diploma under his belt, he moved to London to work at Michelin starred 1 Lombard Street, learning from Herbert Berger, and here the motto was discipline, discipline, discipline, and Cenci learned the necessity of organisation and structure.
A rite of passage, Cenci headed to Paris, and worked with Joel Robuchon at Laurent, known for its classic cuisine, and on his return to London, he pivoted at Nobel Rot with Julian Owen-Mold, where he learnt new, innovative ways of cooking.
Stints in Istanbul as Head Chef at Harvey Nichols, and the 5-star Nita Lake Lodge in Whistler followed, before he worked on the launch Duck & Waffle, shaping its inventive menus, where he stayed for six years, then onto the British-centric, Loyal Tavern with restaurateur Adam White. Post-Covid, Tom joined Maslow's Group, the company behind members' houses, workspaces, restaurants and bars in London, as Executive Chef, embracing this new approach to hospitality. Currently, he oversees the F&B at Maslow’s 1 Warwick and Mortimer House, including Nessa, Yasmin and MHK – a busy man, we catch up with Cenci to learn more about his diverse cooking career.
Starting from the beginning – where did you learn cookery, and any special memories?
I started out by doing work experience at school. I wrote to all the local hotels, and I was fortunate to be able to spend two weeks at the five-star Cliveden House Hotel. They then offered me an apprenticeship, which started my career. I haven’t looked back since.
Who have been your mentors and what did you learn from them?
During my first head chef role, a mentor of mine, Herbert Berger, gave me a framed copy of the speech ‘Man in the Arena’ by Theodore Roosevelt. It’s too long to recite here, but it’s about a gladiator fighting a lion and being criticised for it; the premise is as long as you try your best, that’s all that matters. I even have it tattooed on my arms, reminding me daily.
How would you sum up your cooking style and how has it evolved over the years?
I always try to be as original as possible and think of dishes that hopefully aren’t done elsewhere; as soon as I see a trend that everyone starts to copy, I try to make sure I’m doing something different.
Would you say inventiveness and innovation are at the heart of your cooking?
Yes, in a way, it’s so important to ensure innovation is a part of development. It’s essential that when we make menu changes, the dish coming on is better than the one it’s replacing. Each time, we can make the menu better and better and grow.
What other factors come into play?
I try to source as many ingredients from the UK as possible; provenance is vital to me. I work closely with suppliers and farms to guarantee great produce and am always trying to find new and exciting ingredients.
What's your favourite season for produce? And what do you like to cook with it?
In spring, so many ingredients come to life, and my favourite ingredient to use has to be the tomato. They are so versatile and can be used to make a simple tomato sauce, a ragu, or a tomato salad. The varieties are endless, and I love trying different things with them.
What keeps you driven?
My passion for the hospitality industry, which I love so much, is still there; I always want to improve, so I try to improve everything I do. It’s a steep hill, but I’m still climbing.
What would be your last supper?
My mum's spaghetti Bolognese – yes, it’s a cliché, but to me, it can’t be beaten.