When it comes to cuisine, Executive Chef Aaron Patterson of Hambleton Hall believes in simplicity. Looking at his beautifully comprised plates, though, they’re anything but simple.
Anchored in classic French cooking, this Rutland-based chef offers a feast for the eyes and the tastebuds, working with local produce to create menus that are full of complex flavours and memorable moments. This is teamed with his signature less is more approach — think succinct menus as opposed to 15 plates, that celebrate the main ingredient — they’re the star of the show in Aaron’s kitchen. No wonder then, he has the longest retained single Michelin star in the UK, along with a two-key distinction for this Relais & Châteaux property.
You might say then that Aaron has had a long love affair with Hambleton Hall — 33 years to be precise; he first gained his apprenticeship there, and after working in Raymond Blanc’s kitchen, just like a homing pigeon (after all, he does champion local game), he returned to Hambleton Hall. And we can see why with its serene setting, warm hospitality, and fantastic local produce.
Here, Aaron’s been joined by his two head chefs, Charlie Jones and James Stone for the past 20 years, a testament to the kitchen culture. Together they continue to push and improve one another, and the next generation of chefs who pass through their kitchen, and notably, have gone onto gain their own stars.
You've mentioned that your father was a chef – did you work alongside him, and what did you learn the most from him?
From the age of around 12 years old I would help my father out in his kitchen, he made Marco Pierre White seem like a pussycat! A very hard taskmaster to say the least. I learned a lot about ingredients, classical dishes, and how to work quickly. Back in the day when he was a young man learning his trade, the opportunities weren’t there as they were for me. When I first started, nouvelle cuisine had broken onto the scene, which consisted of a small plate of food beautifully presented but often left people feeling hungry. I always remember watching one of my favourite cooking programmes, Take 6 Cooks. And already by then I had made up my mind about who I was going to work with next, as I found him very inspirational, which was Raymond Blanc.
Who have been your other mentors?
I have three main mentors. Nick Gill, who was my first head chef whilst working as a 16-year-old boy at Hambleton Hall. He instantly made me feel at home and made the job seem like it was a hobby, he helped me to become a creative. Raymond Blanc pushed me to the limits, a fantastic chef and friend even to this day. I would say I learnt how to taste things properly and a lot of technical skills. Tim Hart has been a real inspiration in many ways, I have learnt a lot about the business as a whole. Tim has a very good palate and is extremely knowledgeable about wine. I also admire the way he thinks about certain situations and reacts differently than anyone else I have ever met, in a good way!
How would you sum up your cooking style and how has it evolved over the years?
The roots of my cooking style are classically French. I would say in my early years my food was rather complicated, but over the years has become more sophisticated, focussing more on the main ingredient. Simplicity isn’t easy, I try to capture clear flavours whilst making something look elegant and memorable. I’m not a fan of long-winded tasting menus, I find the dishes and flavours become less memorable, and I would much prefer to have three or four dishes offering more of the main ingredient.
From your apprenticeship at Hambleton Hall at the age of 16, you've had a long relationship with the hotel and restaurant – what do you love most about it there?
I have been executive chef at Hambleton Hall for 33 years. Tim Hart made me a partner in the business many years ago as we have a great working relationship. I regard Hambleton as my home, I have poured almost all my life’s work into the business, so I am very keen to keep the standards flying high. I think people are attracted to Hambleton for many reasons: the grounds, gardens, the surrounding area, but most importantly the rooms, service and the food. I think it is important for our guests and staff that new ideas frequently appear on our menu to keep the whole thing fresh and exciting.
How have you seen the food landscape change?
Over the years, I have seen lots of food landscape change, most recently I suppose it was the use of massively long tasting menus with no choice. I don’t think this is particularly helpful if you are a young chef who wants to learn about as many ingredients as possible, as these tasting menus can perhaps stay on restaurant menus for an entire season. Which I suggest isn’t very helpful for returning clientele as it would be like reading the same book twice! Before that molecular gastronomy burst onto the scene, which is interesting when done well, but when not well thought out, a complete disaster. I think you have to cook for your surrounding audience. When I go to a restaurant, I like to know what season I am in by the ingredients used. Our clientele likes to see locally sourced produce and produce sourced from our own garden advertised on our menu.
How do you go about sourcing your produce, and any particular favourites from Rutland and the surrounding counties?
I am constantly on the lookout for new suppliers. When I find something interesting, I go and visit the site, meet the people behind the ingredients and find out all the information on growing and rearing. Around the local area here we use fallow deer, pheasants, partridge, hares, wild mushrooms, strawberries, raspberries, rare breeds of pork and lamb, asparagus, crayfish, wild mushrooms, eggs, milk and even the occasional pike. Along with all the ingredients grown in our garden, as well as foraging for wild garlic, elderflower, sorrel and blackberries.
Hambleton's restaurant has the longest retained Michelin star in the UK — how do you maintain your drive and energy?
We have retained the Michelin star for many years, apparently the longest in the UK. I think we have been able to create a culture and philosophy about work ethic and general wellbeing. Always looking to improve and move forwards, and never stop being creative and rest on our laurels. I have a fantastic team, I have two head chefs, Charlie Jones and James Stone who have both worked with me for over 20 years. We inspire each other and push each other to do more every day, whilst inspiring, teaching and supporting the next generation of chefs coming through our kitchen as we have had many that have gone on the win their own Michelin star as well as two!
What would be your last supper?
It depends on the season, who I am eating it with and how hungry I am. It would be something I had foraged or caught locally, and I would share it with my family and friends.
Spring, fricassee or morel mushrooms and asparagus
Summer, simply grilled lobster with garlic
Autumn, roast grouse with blackberries
Winter, venison stew with truffled pasta
And your cheese pick from Hambleton's trolley?
My pick from the cheese trolley would be Lincolnshire Poacher, as it is local, and I love the acidity and texture.
