The Meat Master Who Made London Sizzle: A conversation with Chef-Director Richard Turner, Bodean's
- James Massoud
- Sep 2
- 5 min read
Updated: Sep 4
Few figures have carved their legacy into the British food scene quite like Richard Turner. Chef, butcher, restaurateur, and the man behind icons like Hawksmoor, Blacklock, and Meatopia, Turner is revered for elevating meat from plate filler to art form. As the UK rediscovers its love affair with butchery, Turner’s fire-fuelled approach to whole-animal cooking, charcoal grilling, and bold British flavours has become the blueprint for a new wave of meat-centric dining. From dry-aged steak and heritage pork to his latest obsession with regenerative farming, Turner continues to push the boundaries of ethical carnivorism – one flame-licked cut at a time.
You’ve trained under some of the most iconic chefs in the world, but what was it about butchery and live-fire cooking that truly lit the spark for you?
There was something about cooking on live fire that just clicked for me. There’s something so special in using just live fire, smoke, and time to bring out the most incredible flavours, not relying on sauces or fancy plating. When I first started barbecuing in The Albion in Islington, there weren't many places in London cooking on live fire at all.
From Hawksmoor to Blacklock, Turner & George to Bodean’s, your name is woven into the DNA of London’s meat scene. Looking back, what thread ties these ventures together?
They all start from the same place: good meat, properly sourced, cooked simply, and with care. Whether it’s a restaurant or a butcher shop, or even a festival, the goal’s the same – doing justice to the animal and creating real flavour.
Turner & George helped reposition the humble butcher’s counter into something aspirational. With headlines now calling butchers ‘cool’ again, what’s your take on this cultural shift? Is it hype, heritage or something in between?
It’s probably a bit of both. I think people are more interested in where their food is coming from, which is great. That might mean that butchers are “cool” again, but at the heart of it, it’s about trust. People want to buy their meat from someone who can tell you where the animal lived, what kind of life they had, and what they were fed.
Sourcing is clearly sacrosanct to you. How do you vet a farm, and what are the red flags or green lights that tell you a supplier respects the animal as much as the end product?
You can usually tell within minutes. I look at how the animals are kept, what they’re fed, how they’re handled. If they’re stressed or pushed too hard for quick growth, it shows in the meat. On the flip side, when farmers care about their animals and the land, the quality speaks for itself. One red flag for me is the use of red tractor symbols to appear to be farming and selling ethically farmed meat. I don’t think it means much at all.
What does ‘craft’ mean to you in the context of butchery today? Has the definition changed as more people romanticise the trade without understanding its grit?
Craft is about doing the work properly, nothing romantic about it. It’s physical, skilled, and repetitive. The social media version of butchery can be a bit glossy, but the reality is early morning, heavy lifting, and precision. If you respect the process and take the time to learn it, that’s what craft is.
You’re stepping into Bodean’s as chef-director at a pivotal time. What excites you most about this new chapter, and how will you evolve its barbecue legacy without losing its soul?
Bodean’s is an institution and I’m staying true to what made it special. In truth this means not changing too much, more removing a few things whilst still offering a traditional smokehouse experience that honours the past and embraces the present. The menu delivers on authentic flavours that stay true to the craft and culture of barbecue, using produce sourced from trusted farms and suppliers that prioritise animal welfare and traditional farming techniques.
There’s been rising noise around nose-to-tail eating, but do you think the average consumer is really ready to embrace that? Or is it still a chef’s playground more than a public priority?
Nose-to-tail eating is something that we’re really passionate about at Turner & George and I do think the average consumer is definitely more open to it now than they were 10 years ago. Less common cuts are popping up on menus all over London, and that's because these cuts are often some of the most flavourful. But it still comes down to how it’s prepared. If it’s done well, people will eat it, simple as that.
Much of your food is about fire and smoke, but also balance and patience. What’s the biggest misconception people have about barbecue in Britain today?
The biggest misconception is that it’s quick and easy. Good barbecue takes time, sometimes a day, sometimes two. You’ve got to know your wood, your smoke, your temperature, and most of all you have to be patient. Too many people treat it like fast food when it’s really the opposite.
You’ve had a front-row seat to London’s restaurant evolution over the last two decades. How has our relationship with meat changed, and are we better eaters for it?
Definitely, people are asking more questions about meat: where’s it from, how was it raised, what cut is this? That curiosity is a good thing. People are prioritising eating better quality meat, showing more respect for the animal, and more interest in doing things the right way.
Some might argue that the meat world is still too macho or insular. Do you see space for more innovation, inclusivity or even disruption in the sector?
There’s always space and the sector definitely needs new voices, new ideas, and new energy. The more diverse people involved, the stronger the trade gets. It is definitely a tough industry, but that means we should be even more encouraging to anyone who’s serious about the craft.
If you could write a new chapter for the next generation of chefs and butchers, what would you want them to understand about the responsibility that comes with cooking meat?
We evolved as omnivores, and meat (or fish) is an important part of our diet that we don’t thrive without. However, it has become far too accessible; intensively farmed meat stacked high in supermarkets is as appalling to me as any steak might be to a vegetarian. We owe it to the animals and ourselves to value and respect meat. Use every part of the animal possible, especially the nutritious superfood that is offal, but eat it in moderation. As someone once called The King of Carnivores, I’m a pretty poor king, I only eat meat two or three times a week and consider it the luxury it once was and should be again.
Finally, the death row meal question, but with a twist: one cut, one drink and one location. What are you grilling, what are you sipping, and where are you eating it?
Ha! Can I have fish? No? Okay then. Well I do crave steak from time to time but if it’s my death row meal, I think it has to be either Marco Pierre White’s Calves Liver & Bacon from Harveys, or Pierre Koffman’s Pigs Trotter, both coincidentally served with mashed potato. If possible at Sa Trinxa on Playa de Salines in Ibiza with the eponymous Jon Sa Trinxa spinning in the background. As it’s my last drink too, I’ll have a Corpse Reviver No.2 from Hawksmoor… obviously.
