In the heart of Notting Hill, amidst the chic cafes and the artistic soul of West London, sits Caractère, a restaurant whose very name — meaning "character" in French, naturally — reveals its essence. And at its helm is Emily Roux, the youngest heir of a culinary dynasty synonymous with excellence in gastronomy. Daughter of Michel Roux Jr. and granddaughter of Albert Roux, her pedigree could have easily been both her curse and her blessing. When she opened Caractère in 2018 with her husband Diego Ferrari, assumptions of nepotism trailed her, with many expecting a dining experience buoyed only by family fame. But in a few short years, Emily Roux has decisively silenced the sceptics, emerging as a Michelin star chaser who is not only continuing her family's culinary legacy but pushing it into a bold new era.
A New Direction, but Rooted in Tradition
Caractère isn’t just a restaurant — it’s a reflection of Emily Roux's personal journey, both as a chef and as a woman determined to carve her own identity in an industry where male chefs have historically held dominion. What Roux has done, however, is reframe her inherited mastery of classic French cooking techniques with a fresh, contemporary twist. She’s made it clear that, while she deeply respects her lineage, she’s here to innovate, not simply recreate. Alongside her husband, Diego Ferrari — formerly head chef at Le Gavroche — Roux has built a dining experience that is both familiar and daringly new.
It’s in the menu where this duality of tradition and modernity is most apparent. Divided into sections — Curious, Subtle, Delicate, Robust, Strong, Greedy — each one speaks to a different facet of taste and sensation, reflecting not just the food, but the experience Emily wants diners to have. It's an experience built around personality, an audacious step for a chef who could have easily rested on her family's laurels. But instead, she has confidently chosen to chart her own path.
The Food
There were whispers when Emily Roux first appeared on the London dining scene. Could she live up to the expectations set by her family? Or was she merely riding on the Roux name? Yet, her work at Caractère has quickly silenced these doubts. She is not merely a continuation of the Roux lineage — she is its evolution.
Her approach defies those who expected a pale imitation of her father and grandfather's cooking. Where the Roux name might have initially invited assumptions of nepotism, her success now stands on its own merit. She’s proven herself worthy of the mantle through a combination of inventive dishes and an unwavering commitment to quality.
The dishes at Caractère showcase the refinement that comes from a lifetime of immersion in the culinary arts, but they also surprise with an unpretentious boldness. Take the Roast Orkney Scallop with Iberico ham, XO, and beurre noisette sauce from the Curious section. It’s a dish brimming with contrasting textures and a fusion of flavours that flirt with the palate in unexpected ways — far from the conservative elegance one might expect from a Roux. The use of XO, an umami-rich Asian sauce, signals a modern, global sensibility while maintaining the precision of French technique.
Then there’s the Balfegó Bluefin Tuna, paired with a yuzu and chilli condiment, radish, and homemade mandarin ponzu. The balance of heat from the chilli with the citrus sharpness of yuzu makes for a dish that is subtle yet vibrant — a perfect reflection of Emily’s fusion of classical training and boundary-pushing creativity.
Emily Roux’s menu at Caractère is a testament to the art of balance — each dish carefully constructed to offer layers of flavour and texture. Among the standouts in the Delicate section is the Wild Monkfish with Trombetta Courgettes, Mussels, Mint, and Nori Sauce, a dish that speaks volumes about her ability to marry subtle, oceanic flavours with inventive, modern pairings.
Monkfish, with its dense, meaty texture, is often dubbed the "poor man's lobster." Here, however, it’s elevated to something regal, the star of a dish that manages to be both refreshing and complex. The trombetta courgettes — elongated, delicate squash — bring a tenderness that complements the monkfish’s firmness. They add a light, vegetal note, preventing the dish from feeling too heavy or overly indulgent. It’s a play of contrasts: the subtle sweetness of the courgettes against the briny richness of the mussels, which nestle beside the fish, lending their own depth and a touch of salinity.
The "Greedy" Indulgence
Much has been made of the greedy section in Emily’s menu, with some writers of merit shunning it harshly. Yet, the entire point of the Greedy section is, as Emily herself might put it, a playful reminder to live a little — to indulge, to enjoy life, and to treat fine dining as the joyous experience it should be. Fine dining can sometimes feel distant, as though perfectionism has stripped it of joy and spontaneity. But Emily rejects that notion. In Greedy, she gives diners permission to indulge fully, to savour flavours that are bold, rich, and comforting. The message is clear: fine dining isn’t just about technique and precision — it’s about pleasure.
By offering these indulgent desserts, Roux brings back the human element of dining. There’s something almost mischievous about the invitation to be greedy, a gentle challenge to set aside restraint and embrace the moment. Whether it’s the luxurious combination of chocolate and hazelnut in her favourite dish or the balance of fig, vanilla, and pistachio in the ethereal “Violette de Solliès fig mille-feuille, vanilla, pistachio”, each dessert serves as a reminder that sometimes, the greatest culinary experiences are the ones that make you feel truly alive.
In the world of Michelin dining, where austerity and minimalism sometimes reign, Emily’s invitation to be greedy is a refreshing reminder that dining is, at its core, an indulgence. Why not embrace it?
Bold Choices
The innovative combinations at Caractère speak to a chef who is unafraid of risk, but not everything in the dining experience has been met with universal acclaim. Take for example the unusual decor: walls painted in plaster-like strokes that border on unfinished, paired with modern cutlery that feels almost too bold in contrast to the refined food.
Yet, these decisions are intentional.
Just as Emily modernises her family's traditional cuisine, the decor challenges expectations of what fine dining spaces should look like. It’s an aesthetic gamble that mirrors the boldness of the food on the plate. And for all the Michelin star aspirations, there is something wonderfully grounded about Emily herself. She takes the time to visit every table, a gesture that feels both humble and sincere. In an industry where the chef is often a distant figure, cloistered away in the kitchen, Emily’s presence in the dining room is a reminder that food, at its best, is about connection. She is as much a hostess as she is a chef, making sure every diner feels part of the experience she has meticulously crafted.
Carrying the Roux Torch into a New Era
Emily Roux’s ambition goes far beyond simply replicating her family's achievements. She’s carrying the torch for a new generation of chefs who are reshaping what fine dining means in the modern age. In a male-dominated industry, particularly within the Roux family itself, Emily stands as a powerful example of a woman taking her place at the head of the table, not just in her family but in the world of gastronomy at large.
What sets her apart isn’t just her technical prowess — it’s her confidence in modernising the French culinary canon. The Robust section of the menu reflects her boldness in marrying intense flavours with seasonal ingredients.
Emily and Diego are undeniably chasing Michelin stars, but their path is distinctly their own. At Caractère, they’re not just cooking for the future — they’re cooking to redefine it.