Returning to Skye: A conversation with Head Chef Paul Green, The Three Chimneys
- James Massoud
- 4 days ago
- 6 min read
After two decades working in some of the UK’s most acclaimed kitchens – from Edinburgh and Cornwall to the Highlands – Chef Paul Green has come home to The Three Chimneys on the Isle of Skye. Two decades after beginning his culinary journey here as a young commis, he returns as Head Chef, bringing with him a philosophy rooted in simplicity, sustainability, and a deep respect for Skye’s world-class shellfish and local producers. From raw langoustine to Sconser Scallops, Green’s menu celebrates the pure flavour and provenance of Scotland’s coast at its very best.
Looking back over your 20-plus years in kitchens around the UK, Europe and New York, which mentor or experience taught you the lesson you still carry most strongly today, and why?
Two chefs I worked with over my 20-year career come to mind: I spent time with Chef Michael Smith right here on Skye when I was a young commis chef. He taught me that flavour is everything. The other chef is Edinburgh’s Martin Wishart, who instilled a sense of standard and discipline in me.
You started as a young commis under Michael Smith at The Three Chimneys back in 2005, and now you return as head chef. How does the restaurant you’re leading today compare to the place you joined so long ago?
The Three Chimneys is where my passion for Scottish produce really ignited. Coming back to the island almost 20 years later as head chef has an even greater personal significance for me and is an achievement that I’m extremely proud of.
The Three Chimneys kitchen is much bigger since I was last here in 2005. Relationships with local fisherman cultivated over 20 years ago still remain, which is the main reason I decided to come back. Unfortunately, a few local vegetable suppliers are no longer on the island, but this is something we are looking to rectify by growing our own.
The Scottish Highlands and islands and Cornwall share so many similarities. It must be the celtic connection! The pace of life is slower, the summers are busy, winters are quieter. I’d say the biggest differences are the products we use. Here on Skye we have the world class shellfish, Torridon had the game, whilst Cornish waters provided brilliant fish.
How do you balance the tension between highlighting pure seasonal ingredients and layering your own creative impulses?
My philosophy is that every dish must focus on the best cuts, presented simply and ensuring that the flavour of these wonderful ingredients is at the forefront of each dish. We don’t have to throw techniques at every dish, just source well and do as little as possible to them.
In fine dining we often talk about provenance as a buzzword, but here you talk of "longstanding relationships with trusted suppliers." Can you tell us a story of one supplier, or one ingredient, that epitomises how you want The Three Chimneys to define provenance?
When I think of the Three Chimneys I think of shellfish and in particular, Sconser Scallops.
Established almost four decades ago in 1988, Sconser Scallops is the only scallop farm of its kind in Scotland to pioneer the cutting-edge husbandry of twice-dived shallow water finished king scallops. This very special scallop is unique to Skye. It is finished and grown sustainably in Sconser Scallops' seabed fishery in the island’s Loch Sligachan (Gaelic for 'Place of Shells').
Owner of Sconser Scallops, David Oakes, has been supplying The Three Chimneys for a quarter of a century. His son, Ben Oakes, now personally delivers around 200-400 scallops per week to The Three Chimneys and The Three Chimneys at Talisker on the shores of Loch Harport at the height of the summer season.
Scallops from Sconser arrive at The Three Chimneys’ kitchen door alive in their shells on the day of harvest, and we immediately get stuck into expert preparation.
The provenance of ingredients tells a story on every plate. When I work with Sconser Scallops, I'm not just preparing seafood – I'm sharing David and Ben's decades of expertise and Skye's unique marine heritage.
When you taste a Sconser Scallop, you're experiencing something that can't be replicated anywhere else in the world. It's not just the quality, it's the story of this place, these waters, this unique environment that David has spent four decades understanding.
You note that the set menus are designed around seafood, but you do offer vegetarian alternatives. What are the challenges in preserving cohesion and narrative across a menu when one track is meat- or fish-driven and another is plant-based?
The Isle of Skye and indeed the West Coast of Scotland is world famous for its shellfish and it features heavily on The Three Chimneys menu. Seasonal meat dishes and vegetarian dishes are available, but we want to show off our amazing shellfish offering.
The next step in The Three Chimneys story is to grow our own vegetables. Not just to complement the fish dishes, but dishes that we can be proud to serve on their own for those eating a fish and meat-free diet.
Which dish, past or present, are you most proud of, and why?
I’m really proud of the raw prawn (langoustine) dish we have on The Three Chimneys menu at the moment. We lightly score the flesh to make the texture more palatable and dress it in a mixture of mirin, rice wine vinegar and fish sauce.
The feedback has been incredible for a dish so simple and one that I literally threw together one day whilst raiding the fridge. This epitomises my view on food: a brilliant ingredient treated in the best way, telling the story of the connection to our suppliers and environment.
How do you approach designing the tasting menu?
The words "tasting menu" does scare people, so we keep it small at just five courses. There will always be lots of local shellfish, so expect scallops, crab and prawns to feature.
We start off with something raw or cured to get the juices going and keep it fresh. Then on to a lightly cooked scallop.
The next two courses are a bit more substantial, showing off possibly the local venison or hogget, then finishing with a simple seasonal dessert. You could eat the whole menu comfortably in around an hour and a half.
Technique-wise, is there a cooking or preservation method that you feel defines your current repertoire?
I really enjoy serving fish and shellfish raw or lightly cured. It’s a great way to show off the ingredients in a different way than people are used to.
Returning to lead a kitchen in a restaurant that already has an established reputation, how do you manage the balance between honouring legacy and introducing your own signature?
I’m committed to showcasing the provenance of ingredients and following The Three Chimneys’ sustainable ethos to source high-quality produce from local suppliers on the island and wider Scottish Highlands region.
Ultimately, I aspire to build on The Three Chimneys’ long-established reputation. Skye is unashamedly blessed with an abundance of local seafood, often sourced from the shores right in front of the restaurant. This amazing seafood will be a headline feature on our menus alongside fresh game, meats and locally foraged produce.
We’re aiming to continue that legacy by using the same high quality ingredients as before, but lightening the dishes with less clutter on the plate, flavoursome and attractively presented.
What qualities do you look for in your brigade now, compared to earlier in your career?
The quality I look for in my brigade now is still having passion. I love to be surrounded by people who are passionate about something. It could be anything, but hopefully food is one of them.
I remember the old days of working for Martin Wishart, and after the Saturday night clean down, I’d sit for hours with the front-of-house team. They’d talk about wine, cheese, watches, suits – I just loved the enthusiasm.
You can teach most people how to cook, but it helps massively if they have the passion to cook exceptional food.
In a remote and scenic locale like Skye, logistics could be challenging. What is the single biggest operational constraint you face, and how do you overcome it to deliver consistency?
Being located in such of beautiful, but remote part of the island means we always need to pre-order the supplies we need from the mainland much further in advance.
Like the rest of the hospitality industry, attracting and retaining the best team remains a challenge, especially on a remote island like ours. There are people out there, but we want the right people. So you need to offer good accommodation, excellent wages and a motivating work environment; only then can you build something phenomenal as a team.
