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Writer's pictureJames Massoud

Mastering the Art of Dim Sum: A conversation with Executive Dim Sum Chef Leung Kwok-wa, Aqua Restaurant Group

Updated: 3 days ago

Chef Leung Kwok-wa has redefined the global dim sum scene. With over 20 years of mastery, he fuses tradition with innovation, elevating Northern dim sum to international acclaim. From Hong Kong’s iconic kitchens to Aqua Group's global stage, his artistry delights both the palate and the eye.





  • Can you share how your culinary journey began and the pivotal moments that led you to become the Executive Dim Sum Chef at Aqua Restaurant Group?


My culinary journey began over two decades ago in renowned Chinese restaurants in Hong Kong, including Man Wah at the Mandarin Oriental, where I was immersed in the rich flavours and traditions of Chinese cuisine from an early age. A pivotal moment for me was when I trained under renowned chefs, learning the intricate techniques of dim sum preparation. This foundation sparked my passion for creating innovative dishes that honour tradition while exploring new culinary horizons. Joining Aqua Restaurant Group in 2016 as Executive Dim Sum Chef allowed me to oversee dim sum across our outlets and launch Hutong internationally.


  • What is your philosophy when it comes to creating dim sum, and how do you balance traditional techniques with modern innovations in your dishes?


My philosophy centres around respecting the essence of traditional dishes while embracing modern techniques and flavours. I believe that each dim sum item should tell a story, retaining its cultural roots while also appealing to contemporary tastes. By using classic Cantonese craftsmanship as a base, I enhance these dishes with unique ingredients and innovative presentations, creating a harmonious blend of old and new, appealing to a wide range of diners.


  • What are the key differences between Northern and Southern dim sum styles, and how do you approach blending these influences in your menu at Hutong?


Northern dim sum tends to feature heartier flavours and textures, using ingredients like lamb and spices that reflect the region's culinary heritage. In contrast, Southern dim sum emphasises delicate flavours and lighter textures, often incorporating seafood and a variety of dumpling styles. At Hutong, I aim to blend these influences by reimagining traditional Northern dishes as dim sum, creating unique offerings that celebrate both culinary traditions while delivering a cohesive dining experience.





  • How do you select and source the ingredients for your dim sum creations, and what role do local and seasonal produce play in this process?


I prioritise sourcing high-quality ingredients, emphasising local and seasonal produce whenever possible, sourcing them from reputable suppliers. This not only supports local farmers but also ensures that our dishes reflect the freshest flavours. For instance, in our Bei Fang Dim Sum Series, I incorporate ingredients that resonate with the regions we represent, allowing us to celebrate the diverse culinary landscape of Northern China while staying true to our commitment to quality.


  • Among the new Bei Fang Dim Sum Series, do you have a personal favourite dish, and what makes it special to you in terms of flavour and presentation?


One of my personal favourites is the Pan-fried Lamb Bamboo Charcoal Bao. It beautifully encapsulates the bold flavours of Northern cuisine with the aromatic cumin and tender lamb, all encased in a visually striking black bun. The combination of textures — crispy on the outside and flavourful on the inside — along with its presentation, makes it a standout dish that resonates with both tradition and innovation, offering diners an exceptional sensory experience.


  • What is your creative process like when developing new dim sum dishes? Can you walk us through how an idea evolves into a final dish?


My creative process begins with exploring traditional recipes and identifying elements that can be reinterpreted. I often experiment with various flavour combinations and techniques, collaborating with my team to refine the concept. The evolution from idea to final dish involves rigorous testing, tasting, and presentation adjustments to ensure that each dish not only tastes exceptional but also looks visually appealing.





  • How do you aim to promote Northern Chinese dim sum culture to an international audience, and what do you think makes it unique?


Promoting Northern Chinese dim sum culture involves educating our guests about the rich history and diverse flavours that define it. I believe its uniqueness lies in the bold flavours and hearty ingredients, which contrast with the lighter Southern styles. Through our Bei Fang Dim Sum Series, we aim to share these distinctive flavours with an international audience, showcasing the depth and variety of Chinese cuisine.


  • You've mentioned that your dim sum creations aim to provide an unparalleled sensory experience. Can you elaborate on how you achieve this in terms of flavours, textures, and presentation?


To achieve an unparalleled sensory experience, I focus on balancing flavours and textures. Each dish is crafted to offer a combination of savoury, sweet, and spicy notes, while textures range from crispy to tender. Presentation is equally important; I strive to create visually stunning dishes that entice the eye and enhance the overall dining experience. This holistic approach ensures that every bite is memorable with storytelling behind.


  • What challenges do you face in maintaining the authenticity of Northern dim sum while also appealing to diverse international palates?


One of the main challenges is ensuring that we remain true to the authentic flavours of Northern cuisine while making them accessible to a broader audience with global tastes. This requires careful consideration of spice levels and ingredient choices, as well as educating diners about the cultural significance of the dishes. I strive to find a balance that honours tradition while still appealing to diverse tastes.




  • Are there any specific innovative techniques or equipment you use in the kitchen that significantly enhance your dim sum creations?


We utilise modern cooking techniques such as sous-vide for precise temperature control, which helps in achieving perfect textures in our proteins. Additionally, we employ innovative steaming methods that enhance the flavours and presentation of our dumplings. These techniques, combined with traditional craftsmanship, allow us to elevate our dim sum offerings. 


  • How do you foster collaboration among the global team of chefs working across various Hutong locations to ensure consistency and creativity in the dim sum offerings?


I encourage open communication and collaboration among our chefs by holding regular meetings and sharing insights and techniques. We also have tasting sessions where chefs from different locations can share feedback and ideas. This environment not only fosters creativity but also ensures that we maintain a consistent standard of quality across all our Hutong locations.


  • What are your aspirations for the future of dim sum at Hutong, and do you have any plans for expanding the menu or introducing new concepts?


My aspiration is to continue innovating within the realm of dim sum while honouring its rich heritage. I plan to expand our menu to include seasonal offerings as well as explore new concepts that blend cuisines from different cultures. Ultimately, I want Hutong to be a destination where diners can experience the evolving landscape of modern Chinese cuisine.






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