Ivan Ramen Lands in London
- James Massoud
- 5 days ago
- 3 min read
Ivan Ramen, the cult Tokyo-and-New York-born concept from Chef’s Table star Ivan Orkin, has officially opened its first permanent London restaurant in Farringdon. Following a sell-out pop-up in 2023, the 26-cover site brings signature bowls like Tonkotsu, Tori Paitan and Spicy Miso to the capital, alongside London-exclusive dishes such as the Salt Beef Bun, marking a major moment for the city’s ever-evolving ramen scene.
From Grey Streets to Full Seats
There’s a particular kind of London cold that settles in during the depths of winter, the sort that clings to your coat and dulls the edges of the day. It was on one of those grey, low-slung afternoons that I found myself on Farringdon Road, stepping into what, at first glance, felt like an unassuming frontage.
Inside, though, it’s a different story.
The first thing that hits is the hum; low, constant and unmistakably busy. At the back, every seat was taken. Tables here are tight, with shoulders nearly brushing. This is the kind of proximity that tells you everything you need to know.
This place is already flying.
An Intimate Space with Global Roots
At just 26 covers, Ivan Ramen is compact but considered. Clean, minimal Japanese design sits against flashes of New York energy; think Manga artwork, lightboxes, reclaimed materials that nod to Orkin’s original shop. There’s a quiet confidence to it all.
At the front, the kitchen hums with intent. Bowls are assembled with precision, but without ceremony. A steady, almost meditative rhythm that pulls your attention without demanding it.
Bowls That Command Attention
You don’t come here for theatrics. You come here for the ramen.
I start with the Chicken Gyoza the waitress recommends and in no time they're on my table, in between my chopsticks and gone. These delicious starters are swiftly replaced by a classic Tonkotsu, the kind of bowl that carries reputation with it. The broth is deep, layered, unapologetically rich. Noodles carrying the weight of flavour, toppings that feel deliberate rather than decorative.
Around the room, there’s a shared focus. Conversations pause. Heads dip. It’s that universal signal, people are locked into what’s in front of them.
This is serious ramen, without the need to shout about it.
A London Twist
Then comes the curveball: the Salt Beef Bun.
Created specifically for London, it leans into East End familiarity: warm salt beef, pickled cucumber, and a hit of karashi mayo. It’s playful, but grounded. A smart nod to place without losing identity.
It’s also a reminder that this isn’t just a transplant from Tokyo or New York. It’s an evolution.
As Orkin himself puts it: "Tokyo, New York… and now London! What an incredible honour to share our food in three of the world’s most iconic cities.
" London isn't just a world-class restaurant destination. It is home to one of the most exciting ramen scenes anywhere. I’ve always loved this city, and I’m beyond thrilled to finally be a part of it."
Warmth
London already boasts one of the most exciting ramen scenes anywhere, which makes Ivan Ramen’s arrival all the more significant. This isn’t about filling a gap, it’s about raising the bar.
Back outside, the cold still lingers. But there’s a warmth that remains with me, the kind that only comes from a packed room, a hot bowl of broth, and the quiet confidence of something done properly.
In the depths of winter, that was more than enough.
