“Flavour Will Always Come First”: A conversation with Executive Chef James Gaag, La Colombe
- James Massoud
- 1 day ago
- 5 min read
From childhood memories and dreamlike storytelling to relentless refinement in one of Africa’s most celebrated kitchens, Executive Chef James Gaag has helped shape La Colombe into a global fine dining force.
In conversation with The Knife, Gaag reflects on flavour-first cooking, the evolution of La Colombe’s globally inspired identity, and why progression, creativity and camaraderie remain central to the restaurant’s continued success in Cape Town’s Constantia wine valley.
You’ve spoken about flavour being paramount, how do you protect that simplicity of intent within a tasting menu that’s inherently layered and complex?
For me, flavour is always the most important thing. Visuals matter too, of course, but the guest’s first reaction must come from eating something truly delicious. When building a dish, we always cook to taste first. Only then do we begin to dress it up.
La Colombe is often described as a "gastronomic voyage". When you’re building a menu, do you think more like a storyteller or a technician?
A bit of both. The menu is designed to begin light and fresh, then gradually build in depth and intensity as the experience unfolds. I also like to weave in stories from my childhood, personal experiences, travel and even dreams, because ultimately that is where, as a chef, I draw so much of my inspiration.
Having spent time at Le Manoir aux Quat'Saisons, what elements of that experience still subtly shape the way you cook today?
It was truly an incredible experience, and one that will stay with me forever. While the style of cooking is not necessarily the same, I often draw from what I learnt there. The attention to detail, discipline, passion and drive were all qualities I deeply admired at that stage of my career. Those values remain central to how I work today, and I strive to impart them to my team and chefs.
Your food balances precision with a sense of playfulness, how do you know when a dish is right and you’ve hit that balance?
Above all else, it must be delicious. From there, we need to ensure that it is consistently achievable, so that every plate reaching the guest is as exceptional as the last, while still successfully conveying the story or idea behind it. Many dishes are inspired by childhood memories or experiences that brought me great joy, and I love being able to share that with others. Bringing a sense of play, wonder and whimsy is a key part of the experience we create.
La Colombe’s setting is extraordinary. How consciously do you design dishes to reflect or respond to the landscape around you in Constantia?
We are incredibly fortunate to be situated where we are, surrounded by forest and the natural beauty of the estate. While I do not necessarily design dishes directly around the landscape, I often draw presentation inspiration from it. Much of our serviceware is made in-house, from the crockery to presentation pieces and even lighting elements. A lot of it takes cues from the estate itself, bringing the surroundings into the restaurant so that the experience feels fully immersive.
What does the French-Asian identity mean for you in your kitchen, and how do you keep it feeling relevant?
I think in years gone by, La Colombe may have been more distinctly French-Asian. Today, I prefer to describe it as globally inspired cuisine. The more I travel and experience different cultures and techniques, the more inspired I become. The French influence remains in the foundations, while the Asian influence often comes through more in the precision, detail and technique than in the flavour profile itself, if that makes sense.
You’ve grown within the restaurant from student to Executive Chef. How has that long-term relationship shaped the culture and standards in your kitchen?
I feel very fortunate to have found myself at La Colombe so early in my career. It has always been a kitchen I loved being in, a space where I could enjoy myself, express creativity and explore ideas without boundaries. We were given the freedom to experiment and discover what worked for us.
I believe if you are fortunate enough to find a kitchen where you are constantly growing, you should hold onto it. I try to continue fostering that same sense of fun and expression within the team. Kitchens can be demanding environments, so it is important to be able to laugh together and build camaraderie among the chefs. The food is always better for it.
With La Colombe consistently ranking among the world’s best, how do you keep the team hungry without becoming trapped by expectation or reputation?
I have a great team, but most importantly, I have a team that believes in the same vision for the restaurant that I do. When you have that, a team that believes in you, in themselves, and is constantly pushing one another to improve, you have already won.
What’s a dish on the current menu that best captures where you are as a chef right now, and why?
That is difficult to say. If I was not completely happy with a dish, it simply would not be on the menu. So in many ways, the menu as a whole reflects where I am right now. It is continuously edited and refined to align with how I am feeling and what I am trying to express. We are always pushing forward and always thinking about what comes next.
There’s a strong visual identity to La Colombe’s plating. How do you ensure that aesthetics never overshadow the guest’s response to flavour?
Flavour will always come first, never presentation. If the dish itself is not strong enough, it will never make the menu. Building flavour, contrast and texture is always our starting point. The garnishing and presentation then follow naturally from that foundation.
South Africa’s dining scene is evolving rapidly. Where do you see La Colombe’s role within that, both locally and on the global stage?
It is always important to remain aware of what is happening both locally and internationally, especially in an industry like food where new techniques and trends are constantly emerging. That said, our focus has always been on maintaining our own standard of excellence while continuing to push boundaries. We are constantly looking inward and asking how the menu can evolve, what can be elevated, what can be challenged, and what else we can explore. As chefs, we are always evolving, and naturally the restaurant evolves with us.
Looking ahead, what does progression mean for you personally?
Progression is everything. It never stops. For me, progression is about constantly striving for excellence, and that is exactly what our food is about.
