"We’re a pub that happens to serve exceptional food": A conversation with Executive Chef Joe Walker, Herts Pubs Company
- James Massoud
- 9 hours ago
- 5 min read
The British pub has rarely faced more challenges, yet for Joe Walker, its future remains full of possibility. Recently appointed Executive Chef at Herts Pubs Company, Joe brings experience from fine dining kitchens, two AA Rosette restaurants and one of Europe’s fastest-growing food businesses. Now leading the food offering at The Cock in Hitchin and The George in Graveley, whilst helping shape the group’s expansion plans, he’s championing local producers, seasonal British ingredients and a return to the pub’s role as the heart of the community.
In this conversation with The Knife, Joe discusses why nostalgia matters, the importance of consistency, supporting local growers, and why Britain’s pubs still have a vital role to play on struggling high streets.
You’ve moved from fine dining and high-growth food operations into the world of pubs at a time when many are struggling. What convinced you this was the right move?
The pub has always been the hub of the community. We want to carry that culture forward through modern British food while keeping hospitality thriving in our local areas. The industry is undoubtedly facing challenges, but I think customers are increasingly looking for experience-led hospitality. What attracted me to Herts Pubs Company was its ethos of people, purpose and passion. That applies to everyone: staff, guests, customers and suppliers.
For us, it’s about focusing on great products, great food and bringing memorable experiences back into the community.
What separates a genuinely modern British pub kitchen from one that’s simply serving food?
Creativity. At Herts Pubs Company we’re bringing in whole animals, including whole venison, and teaching chefs how to break them down properly. Financially it makes sense, but it also allows us to create something different for guests.
Ten years ago you could walk into countless pubs and see exactly the same menu. We’re trying to move away from that. We make everything in-house, from the bread to the ice cream, and that gives us opportunities to teach our teams and continually improve.
For me, it’s about putting passion and creativity back at the centre of pub cooking.
Are there any British producers or ingredients you feel remain overlooked?
What excites me most is discovering passionate local producers. We’ve recently started working with Irongate Market Garden, which is less than three miles from our venues. It’s a fantastic community project that’s helping young people back into work and has plans to create educational programmes around agriculture.
Every week I receive messages about what’s growing well: rainbow chard, radishes, herbs. That relationship directly influences our menu writing and gives us access to produce at its absolute best. Supporting projects like that feels incredibly important.
How do you balance comfort and creativity without losing the warmth people associate with pubs?
Nostalgia is probably the biggest influence on my menus. One of our signature snacks is Fen Farm Baron Bigod cheese with lager and onion relish served on a crumpet. It’s simple, comforting and instantly familiar, but uses exceptional British ingredients.
We’ve got dishes like scampi with curry sauce, giant sausage rolls and other playful nods to British food culture. The aim is to create memories.
The best thing about hospitality is that people remember meals connected to important moments in their lives. Nostalgia taps directly into that.
Do you think nostalgia is becoming increasingly important in British dining?
Definitely. Food is all about memories. People remember anniversary dinners, family celebrations and special occasions. Often they remember exactly what they ate.
When you tap into nostalgia, you’re connecting with those emotions. It might remind someone of eating fish and chips with their dad or a favourite meal from childhood. Those emotional connections are incredibly powerful.
What lessons from fine dining still shape your cooking today?
Finesse and respect for ingredients. My food philosophy has always been about allowing great produce to speak for itself. That starts with finding outstanding suppliers and building stories around those ingredients.
The other thing I bring from fine dining is training. I love teaching younger chefs, and I worry that we’re losing part of that next generation pipeline since Covid.
Fine dining teaches discipline, technique and attention to detail. Those lessons are just as valuable in a pub kitchen as they are in a Michelin starred restaurant.
You helped scale Simmer Eats during a period of huge growth. What did that teach you about consistency?
Consistency is everything. When I joined Simmer Eats, we were producing around 1,000 meals a week. By the time I left, we were producing around 450,000 meals weekly and had become Europe’s fastest-growing food business. At that scale, consistency becomes non-negotiable.
The same principle applies in pubs. Guests might not dine out as often as they once did, but when they do, they want value and reliability. If someone has nine fantastic visits and one poor experience, you risk losing them altogether. Consistency is what builds trust and keeps people coming back.
Do you think the industry sometimes overlooks the social role pubs play within communities?
One hundred per cent. We’re trying to create venues that work for everybody. Someone might pop in after work for a pint and a snack, while another guest wants a five-course dinner. Approachability is everything.
The pub should be a place where different people can share the same space and enjoy different experiences. That’s something we should never lose sight of
What role can food-led pubs play in revitalising Britain’s struggling high streets?
A huge role. It comes back to community and accessibility. People still want to socialise, but they’re far more conscious about where they spend their money.
The reality is that you can spend £30 incredibly quickly in many places these days. We’re working hard to offer genuine value, with menus that remain accessible while delivering quality. If pubs can become welcoming, affordable places where people want to spend time, they can absolutely help bring life back to town centres.
How do you balance affordability with local sourcing and seasonal cooking?
Creativity again. Using whole animals makes financial sense while allowing us to be inventive with lesser-used cuts. Slow-cooked dishes, braises and other traditional techniques help maximise value without compromising quality.
Seasonality is also important. When produce is at its best, it’s often at its most affordable.
Ultimately, it comes back to building strong relationships with suppliers and letting great ingredients lead the menu.
As the Herts Pubs Company expands, how do you maintain individuality and soul?
We’re very proud to call ourselves a pub. We’re a pub that happens to serve exceptional food, not a restaurant with a bar attached.
That distinction matters because it shapes everything we do. We want guests to feel comfortable whether they’re stopping in for a drink or sitting down for a full meal.
We’re also building communities through events such as wine dinners and supper clubs. We’re already seeing familiar faces returning month after month, which is exactly what we hoped for.
What does success look like five years from now?
We want to be firmly embedded within our communities. We’re ambitious and we won’t stop at two venues. We want to continue growing, finding opportunities and bringing our approach to other towns and communities across the region. The goal is to create pubs that offer multiple experiences under one roof while remaining approachable, community-focused and genuinely hospitable.
If we can help bring that sense of connection back to local town centres, I’ll consider that a success.
