Sea, Soul, and Stars: A conversation with Chef Robert Thompson MBE, RT Cafe Grill
- James Massoud
- Apr 10
- 5 min read
Updated: Apr 10
What does it take to become the youngest British chef to earn a Michelin star — and still be hungry for more? For Robert Thompson MBE, it’s not just about culinary accolades, but about shaping an entire island’s identity through food. From relaunching his eponymous fine dining venture to elevating beachside grill fare on the Isle of Wight, Thompson’s story is one of passion, perseverance, and the relentless pursuit of excellence. In this candid conversation with The Knife, the chef opens up about leadership, legacy, and the local ingredients that fire his imagination.
You earned a Michelin star at such a young age — how did that early recognition shape your approach to cooking and restaurant leadership?
Being honest there were mixed feelings initially, this was because the restaurant was previously a two-Michelin star. I had to manage the team’s disappointment as I suppose it was easy to just focus on the loss.
Those feelings, of course, did not last long, and after that it was business as usual. Germain [Schwabb] was always so consistent in his approach, flavour and texture first, then onto the look. This, of course, has helped shape how I now lead the team, with a calm and consistent approach. I also spend a great deal of time studying my day-to-day spending and accounts in general, I like to be always on top of where the business is at.
The Isle of Wight has become a true “foodie destination.” What do you think makes the island’s culinary scene unique, and how have you contributed to that identity?
For me, being surrounded by the sea, with everything from perfect beaches, open countryside, forests, villages and towns, lots of independent shops and restaurants, all help to frame the Island’s culinary offering.
From when I moved here in 2007, I’ve continually shouted about the place, and always sought to create and run places which the community can be proud of, and which help us on the larger stage in attracting visitors each year. I hope that consistent attitude has helped develop the island's foodie reputation.
How do you source your ingredients for RTCafeGrill and Thompson’s? Do you have any go-to local producers you work with regularly?
Over the years I’ve developed strong working relationships with many suppliers both on and off the island. Quality is first and foremost, but price has to be considered. What I don’t do is just buy for ease.
There are many great suppliers here, but we still have a long way to go in my opinion. We desperately need an abattoir here, which will then mean we can truly have farm-to-fork. I’d also love to see a centralised market where everyone can sell their products, I miss big markets so much!
RTCafeGrill is described as one of the island’s most talked-about restaurants. What was your vision for it, and how does it differ from your past projects?
My Café Grill was all about continuing my career in hospitality, using everything learned along the way, and then onto creating a more relaxed atmosphere, but still with the feeling of being special.
So much has changed in the past few years, and times are tough for so many more people. This was why it was vital to me to expand upon what I offered previously. I’m looking forward to adding lots to the project, including bringing back Thompson’s by way of pop-up nights, located in the fully renovated lower floor of my new property in Ryde.
I find it funny (and humbling) when guests who haven’t visited before, arrive and tiptoe in, almost in silence! I’m the first there to put their minds at ease, and to get the fun started!
With Thompson’s relaunching soon, what can diners expect from the new iteration of the restaurant? Will it reflect your signature style, or are you taking a different approach?
Signature style all the way! Food and service presented in an unfussy, relaxed manner, whilst offering an unrivalled experience delivered by my team. If anything has changed, it will be an increase in the quality and refinement all round.
How do you balance accessibility and innovation in your cooking, particularly at RTCafeGrill, where the atmosphere is more relaxed?
The Grill’s menu is fitting to its name, so it’s very much simple cooking, relying on the classics, with a sprinkling of mine and my teams inspiration. Dishes must always be identifiable by guests, the flavours and how it’s described. It’s our job to impress whilst not confusing diners.
What’s one dish across your career that you’re most proud of, and what’s the story behind it?
A dish that will for sure be back when Thompson’s pops up is my Ceviche of Mackerel. I think it was about 2008 when I went to a restaurant in Spain and had an amazing red mullet dish, served very similarly with radishes. Arriving back, I wanted to recreate it, but with ingredients plentiful to me at the restaurant.
And so I made a very light horseradish cream, topped with a dice of raw mackerel, dressed with local rapeseed oil and some fresh lime juice and zest. Then, I topped it with a gossamer thin layer of pink radishes, crispy charred mackerel skin, and little pungent coriander shoots. It went crazy and it’s been back on the menu many times since.
You’ve achieved so much in fine dining — what continues to drive you forward in the industry? Are there any new culinary challenges you’re excited to take on?
I just love hospitality – talking with guests, never the same day, the buzz, the team, and the endless challenges to overcome.
I’m excited to add the fine dining arm to my Ryde home, and to launching my private dining space with its stunning walk-in wine cellar.
How do you see the Michelin Guide’s role evolving in today’s dining world? Does it still hold the same significance as when you first earned a star?
Absolutely! It’s always been my go-to guide, and the benchmark of quality for our trade. I see it evolving as it has done for years, everything considered, no big sudden moves, and continuing to be a guide which recognises great hospitality across many different countries, cultures, and brands.
Sustainability is a big conversation in food right now. How do you incorporate sustainable practices into your kitchens?
We do the obvious, and have done for as long as I can remember. Sorting rubbish effectively so that it is always recyclable where possible. We also go further and ensure we order from suppliers who take great care in how they package and deliver. Our menu is crafted according to the seasons, which means we don’t need to import much.
Many chefs talk about the pressure and intensity of the industry. How have you managed the demands of high-level cooking while maintaining creativity and balance?
I think I just focus on my guests, put everything I have in, and look after my team. I’m often the first in and last to leave. The other day a guest said that things can’t be going well as they saw me polishing glasses, it’s of course the opposite! The boss, in my view, must be involved, getting their hands dirty, and setting an example to all.
I also find that because I’m constantly on the floor, I can push for creativity whilst ensuring the business is directed accurately and effectively.
If you could serve a meal to any historical figure, who would it be, and what would you cook for them?
Does Anthony Bourdain count?! If so, that would be the dream, and for good measure I’d have Keith Floyd. And I’d cook them another dish that’s been on and off my menu for years – a pressing of lightly smoked eel, slow-cooked ham hock, duck liver and caramelised Granny Smith Apple. We’d have it with just made brioche and a huge bottle of Sauternes!