From The Gannet to Glasgow's Newest Bistro: A conversation with Chef-Owner Peter McKenna, Eleven Fifty Five

After 12 years at acclaimed Glasgow restaurant The Gannet, chef-owner Peter McKenna made a decision that surprised many: close one of the city’s most respected fine dining institutions and start again. His new venture, Eleven Fifty Five, swaps tasting-menu formality for an upscale neighbourhood bistro built around sharing plates, open-fire cooking and produce-led generosity.

In this exclusive conversation with The Knife, McKenna discusses changing dining habits, rediscovering creative freedom, leaning into his Irish roots and why great restaurants should feel somewhere guests return weekly – not yearly.

Peter and Kevin

• After 12 years at The Gannet, closing the restaurant must have been a huge decision. At what point did you realise the next chapter needed to look fundamentally different, rather than simply evolving the same concept?

Early last year I realised that we had to change; I needed a change and I could see the dining landscape shifting. I knew that we had to be more accessible as a business as the cost of living cranked up further and further. Personally, I was drawn to a more relaxed style of eating out. I didn't want to ease up on standards, I just wanted a less fussy approach.

• Eleven Fifty Five is described as an upscale neighbourhood bistro. From a chef’s perspective, what does that format allow you to express on the plate that a more traditional fine-dining restaurant perhaps didn’t?

There are no rulebooks of what I can or can't do. If I want to put on a Middle Eastern-style dish I can, if I want to put on a simple braise I can – it gives me complete freedom. I can just cook whatever I desire and don't have to make it overly refined. I'm still me and my style still shines through.

• The menu leans into whole cuts of aged beef, seasonal braises and fish served on the bone. Was that a conscious move towards more elemental, produce-driven cooking?

My cooking has always been produce-driven, that's the most important aspect for me – great seasonal ingredients. This just felt like a natural evolution, maybe it's an age thing!

Whole BBQ sardines

• You’ve spoken about Irish snugs and Parisian bistros as inspirations for the restaurant. How do those influences translate not just into the room, but into the style and rhythm of the food coming out of the kitchen?

For larger tables we prefer serving their mains as large format sharing plates and let them choose their starters and desserts It's a lovely way of eating and gets everyone around the table involved. This adds to that comfortable environment we have created within the different spaces of the restaurant.

• At The Gannet, you built a reputation for refined cooking rooted in Scottish produce. How does that philosophy evolve at Eleven Fifty Five, and are there ingredients or producers you’re particularly excited to showcase in this new setting?

I was very strict about only using Scottish suppliers with The Gannet, but now I'm leaning into my roots back in Ireland (I've been living in Glasgow for 20 years). It's controversial, but the majority of the beef I'm now using is from Ireland; we still use Scotch beef for our tartare. Both are excellent but this product from the Hannan brothers is absolutely stunning and I'm keen for everyone to try it as an alternative to Scotch beef!

• There’s often an assumption that a move away from tasting menus means simplifying the cooking. In reality, does cooking à la carte bring its own set of creative and technical challenges?

I cook how I cook, there is always complexity and structure, but I'm trying to let the products do the talking.

Scallop

• How do you strike that balance between indulgence and finesse?

With great ingredients comes great indulgence and finesse.

• Many chefs speak about wanting restaurants that people return to weekly rather than once a year. Was creating that sense of repeatability a key goal for Eleven Fifty Five?

100% that's my intention and our restaurant is beautiful, I want as many people as possible to enjoy it.

• You’ve worked in Michelin starred kitchens and spent years running a highly regarded restaurant in Glasgow. At this stage in your career, what excites you most about being back on the stoves with a new concept?

I love the buzz of a busy dining room, I love great ingredients and I love working with a team of enthusiastic professionals. They spur me on to work harder each and every day.

Peter and Kevin

• The partnership with Kevin Dow has been central to both The Gannet and now Eleven Fifty Five. How important is that chef/front-of-house relationship in shaping the overall experience for guests?

This relationship can never be underestimated. The first person the guests meet are our front-of-house team, they are key to guests returning as they create the atmosphere in the room.

• Finnieston has become one of Glasgow’s most vibrant dining neighbourhoods over the past decade. How do you see Eleven Fifty Five fitting into that landscape today?

Perfectly, I feel this style of restaurant is just what's needed in Finnieston at the moment.

• If a guest walks into Eleven Fifty Five for the first time and orders just three dishes that best represent what you’re trying to do here, what would you hope they choose and why?

Leek Vinaigrette with Isle of Mull Cheddar Royale and Bitter Leaves is what every good bistro needs and ours is sublime; Aged Beef Tartare with Roast Bone Marrow and Sourdough Crisps is a classic elevated; and Hannan’s Himalayan Club Steak cooked over the coals, it's a beautiful thing. 

Visit Eleven Fifty Five