Scotland’s Chef of the Year 2025: A conversation with Head Chef Michael Leathley, The Pierhouse
- James Massoud
- 6 days ago
- 6 min read
Perched on the edge of Loch Linnhe in Port Appin, The Pierhouse has long been a destination for quietly exceptional Scottish seafood, but under the stewardship of Michael Leathley, recently crowned Scotland’s Chef of the Year 2025, it has become one of the country’s most compelling dining rooms. Listed in the Michelin Guide, holder of two AA rosettes, and deeply rooted in Argyll’s fishing and farming communities, Leathley’s cooking is defined by time, place and restraint. In this exclusive interview with The Knife, he talks langoustines hauled from the pier, classic French technique, leading a team through change, and why simplicity is the hardest thing to get right.
Congratulations on being named Scotland’s ‘Chef of the Year’. What do you think sets you apart from the other chefs in contention and how do you balance ambition with authenticity in such a small, coastal kitchen?
Being named as Scotland’s ‘Chef of the Year’ is very much appreciated, but slightly overwhelming. It’s difficult to say what stands out about me individually because I’ve always seen restaurants and kitchens as a team sport. We work to support each other so that we can deliver the best experience to our guests. We might be small, but we punch above our weight. The awards feel like more of a celebration for all the people who have supported me.
The Pierhouse sits right on Loch Linnhe, a location that must shape your menu daily. How directly does the sea influence your creative process, and how do you showcase that connection on the plate?
My style of cooking is all about time and place, so our location directly feeds into the menu here. Our relationship with the community and our suppliers continues to grow, I see it as my job to best represent their hard work. Our setting, right on the shores of Loch Linnhe overlooking the island of Lismore, inspires me, as does the quality and freshness of the seafood. In particular, the oysters and mussels have incredibly low food miles. Our langoustines are landed on the pier directly in front of the hotel, and we also store our lobsters in creels there, which I haul up when needed so they are as fresh as possible. I use the freshest produce, and I don’t hide these flavours, I simply accentuate them.
Your à la carte dinner menu feels grounded in local produce but executed with refinement; dishes like the hand-dived scallops and roast monkfish tail feel both classic and confident. What’s your approach to designing a menu that honours tradition yet feels modern?
I have a real love of classic French cooking, [there's] nothing finer than a stunning piece of fish cooked with care, a generous amount of sauce with good bread and butter to mop up the plate – [it] is a truly special thing. I’m never too precious, but I'm always looking to improve. The menu is always constantly evolving, so if a part of a dish is not working or doesn’t quite fit, I encourage my team to change it by trying a new technique or ingredient. But it all starts with the star of the show – the fish, mussels or scallops – which we showcase to their best. There are so many exciting producers around us. I am living my best chef dream by getting out there and meeting them, which helps everything we do here at The Pierhouse.
Scotland’s west coast is known for its exceptional seafood. What’s the key to letting those ingredients shine without overcomplicating them?
The key is to constantly taste dishes and ask yourself why an element is there? Does it need to be there? Simplicity on the plate can be nerve-racking as there is nowhere to hide; small mistakes become very noticeable. It all starts with the ingredients; I do not overfuss a dish. I encourage my team to start with classic cooking techniques and build from there. Let the recipes evolve. Keeping our minds open and looking around us, but we [are] constantly reevaluating.
You’ve been recognised with two AA rosettes and a listing in the Michelin Guide. How do those benchmarks influence your kitchen standards?
It’s been amazing to be recognised by AA and Michelin, it's great recognition for all the hard work everyone has put in at The Pierhouse. They provide me with a clear way to communicate the standards that we expect, as well as a framework and focus for moving forward. We are always looking to improve.
The lunch menu at The Pierhouse strikes a more relaxed tone, but there’s clearly the same attention to quality. How do you approach the difference between lunch and dinner service, in both energy and creativity?
We love to have something for everyone here! Lunches tend to be faster paced and have a broader spectrum of guests. One memorable lunch service we had was the Bentley Owners club of Sweden in their smart jackets, right next to a family of paddle boarders in wetsuits. Everyone enjoying the same menu. There was such a wonderful buzz in the dining room.
On the lunch menu, I keep the same ethos of fresh, local, unpretentious cooking. Port Appin is such a vibrant area and it is staggeringly beautiful; I want to share all the incredible things this area can offer with diners.
Sourcing in Argyll could be both a blessing and a logistical challenge. What relationships with local fishermen, growers or producers are most vital to your kitchen’s success?
Our suppliers are key and something I’ve nurtured and built relationships over the years, it’s the backbone of what we do. It’s only since moving here and having the chance to go and see the oyster beds, the mussel farms and meet producers and suppliers directly myself, I have a deeper understanding of the infrastructure that goes into our supply chain. That’s been so fascinating to learn about, and this direct understanding has helped me grow as a chef.
You’ve worked your way up in a hospitality landscape that’s changed dramatically over the past decade. How have your experiences shaped the way you lead and mentor your team today?
Along with Fiona McLean, the general manager, I have tirelessly worked right from the moment I started here to create a better working environment for our team. We have survived the double hitter of Brexit and Covid, but given all the challenges that we have faced, we have always focused on a core belief that if we look after our staff, they will look after our guests. There is only one constant in life – that is change. We always look at making positive changes, better working hours and staff benefits, so our guys get to enjoy this stunning part of the world. Making sure we are flexible means we can weather any storm.
Sustainability is becoming a defining part of Scotland’s food identity. How does The Pierhouse interpret that responsibility, from waste reduction to ingredient sourcing?
Sustainability is inherent to everything we do, and much like everything else is a constant process of change and growth. We need to look after the stunning environment where we are located, so we keep waste to a minimum, source locally and do our bit to protect our surroundings.
When you look at Scotland’s wider restaurant scene right now, which chefs or places do you feel are pushing boundaries in ways that inspire you?
There is so much going on in Scotland; the food scene is really diverse and exciting. I have a long list of places I want to eat, but one place on my wish list is Inver at Loch Fyne, especially since reading chef Pam Brunton’s book, Between Two Waters. My better half and son are a bit tired of me constantly suggesting that every day off or holiday is spent eating out.
What dish on your current menu best represents you as a chef, and what story does it tell?
That’s such a hard question. I would probably say the chilled Loch Linnhe Langoustine and half a dozen Loch Creran Oysters on the menu. It is a love story, and I couldn’t imagine anything more romantic than looking over Loch Linnhe, eating the best seafood from within a few steps away from the water. Pure simplicity. I personally know Eoghann Black, the fisherman, and Judith Vajk, the oyster farmer, so it wouldn’t be the same anywhere else. We have the perfect combination of food and setting here.
Finally, if a first-time guest were to visit The Pierhouse for dinner tonight, what experience do you hope they walk away with?
I hope they can taste how much I love The Pierhouse. It is picturesque and beautiful, and I am proud that we serve exceptionally fresh, locally sourced ingredients. A stay here offers a chance to be nourished by the gentler rhythms and warm hospitality of Argyll, and we try to create a real home-from-home.
