Cumbria, a county nestled in the rugged landscapes of North West England, has become an unexpected culinary hotspot in recent years, boasting more Michelin star restaurants than any other region outside of London. The county's rise to gastronomic prominence invites intriguing questions about the forces that have shaped this success: Is it the local talent of chefs and kitchen staff? The abundance of exceptional local produce? Or perhaps the increasing influx of tourists has elevated the quality of dining experiences? To unravel this, The Knife speaks to the people who directly harness Cumbria's natural bounty, delving into the symbiotic relationship between them and the broader socio-economic currents that have converged in this remote yet remarkable region.
The Natural Larder
Cumbria’s geographical diversity offers a rich and varied natural larder that is the envy of many regions. From the fertile valleys producing vegetables and grains to the wild uplands that are home to distinctive breeds of livestock, the county is a treasure trove of high-quality ingredients. The coastline, with its access to fresh seafood, complements the inland abundance, creating a pantry that is both diverse and distinctive.
"I think Cumbria is so special because of the local produce," Jack Bond – Chef-Owner of The Cottage in the Wood – tells us. "It has the perfect mix of diverse environments to create world-class products from the famous Herdwicks that scale our fells to the natural larder that you can forage from the forests and coastline. The communication and support from the other chefs in the Lake District help to create a fantastic community. Collaborating with each other also means that we can access certain suppliers. By default, we all help to improve each other, which collectively raises the bar."
Nina Matsunaga – Chef-Owner of The Black Bull in Sedbergh – agrees with Jack: "The produce that is available to chefs is amazing – especially things like ethically sourced and regeneratively reared and grass-fed red meat, which is truly excellent including rabbits and game from Cartmel Valley. We’ve also got access to high-quality locally grown produce, including a newly cultivated more unusual crop wasabi, which I use in quite a few of my dishes. Alongside that, we have access to quality tomatoes, organic rapeseed oil and even grains and seafood including crab, langoustines and oysters from Morecambe Bay. The sheer number of passionate people involved in the hospitality and food industry in the region is phenomenal. Quite a large proportion of the county could be deemed to be in the shadow of Cartmel, and it really shouldn’t be. There are lots of good chefs and an ever-increasing number of young innovators starting up businesses here, including the likes of Zingi Bear, Lakes Brew Co, and Grasmere Distillery. Then you’ve got the cheese and dairy options including Winter Tarn Butter, Thornby Moor Dairy, Whin Yeats Dairy, and St James Cheese. In my view, it’s these passionate producers who are driving the county’s culinary scene. It’s a symbiotic relationship – one can’t exist without the other."
The landscape itself, characterised by the Lake District’s fells, valleys, and lakes, contributes directly to the culinary identity of the region. Herdwick lamb, a staple in Cumbrian cuisine, is a prime example. Raised on the high fells, these sheep yield meat that is unique in flavour, a product of their environment. Similarly, the wild game, foraged mushrooms, and artisanal cheeses found in Cumbria offer chefs a wide palette of flavours and textures to work with, ensuring that dishes are not only rooted in the land but also infused with its character.
"I know I'm biased," explains Kevin Tickle – Chef-Owner of Heft, Newton in Cartmel, "but I think Cumbria is the most special corner of our little island and what’s more, we have everything covered – with beautiful coasts, lakes, rivers, forests and stunning mountains and moors. Spread across this region you’ll find some incredible food producers. From farmers who work hard to look after our landscape and nurture their livestock and produce, to artisan bakers, cheese makers and brewers who create amazing products. Every one of them is passionate about provenance, welfare, production standards and doing the best they can. Which for me as a restaurant owner makes it so easy to choose from the very best and then use that to create something truly special for our guests.
"Tourism is thriving in Cumbria and as a result, we now have a deep pool of talent, and these days they’re able to stay in their home county and gain experience working in some of the amazing places diners flock to. Of course, there’s another advantage too… When you work in the Lakes you can nip out and take a paddle board down to one of the lakes on your split shift and immerse yourself in the landscape – which you definitely can't do in London!"
The Artisans
While the natural larder provides the foundation, it is the local talent pool — chefs, kitchen staff, and producers — who transform these raw ingredients into the refined dishes that earn Michelin stars. Cumbria’s culinary success can be attributed to a generation of chefs who have honed their craft locally, often starting in modest kitchens before ascending to culinary stardom. These chefs are not only skilled in technique but are deeply connected to the local environment, understanding the nuances of seasonal produce and the importance of sustainability. This connection allows them to innovate while remaining true to the region’s gastronomic heritage.
"Having recently moved to Cumbria it’s amazing to see how thriving the food scene is here," says Mark McCabe – Head Chef at Henrock by Simon Rogan at Linthwaite House. "Simon really put the area on the map with L’Enclume and has continued to push his vision forward year on year. For me, the chance to work amongst such an incredibly talented group of people is what brought me to the area and why it shines so brightly."
Paul Burgalieres – Group Executive Chef, North West – agrees: "Simon has guided the food scene in Cumbria with the farm-to-fork ethos since he opened L’Enclume over 20 years ago. Cumbria has an array of great farmers and chefs who to some degree have been influenced by Simon’s ethos and as a result the region now has a collective of chefs who are pushing culinary boundaries. These chefs and producers are in turn nurturing the next generation, which means the ripple effect is such that the region’s culinary prowess simply continues to grow from strength-to-strength as they begin to come through into every aspect of the industry."
Cumbria has seen an influx of talented chefs drawn to the area by the opportunity to not only work with such exceptional produce, but also to grow in a setting that fosters creativity and innovation. The relative isolation of the region, away from the competitive pressures of metropolitan areas, has perhaps allowed chefs the freedom to experiment, develop their style, and build relationships with local suppliers – and each other – that result in dishes of extraordinary quality and distinctiveness.
The Tourists
Tourism has undoubtedly played a significant role in Cumbria’s culinary evolution. The Lake District, a UNESCO World Heritage site, attracts millions of visitors each year, drawn by its breathtaking landscapes and the promise of a retreat from urban life. This influx of visitors has created a demand for high-quality dining experiences, compelling local restaurants to raise their standards. The resulting competition has likely spurred innovation and excellence, with establishments vying to offer memorable meals that complement the region’s natural beauty.
However, tourism’s influence extends beyond mere demand. The global trend towards food tourism (something we've explored already in this article) — where culinary experiences are a central part of travel — has found fertile ground in Cumbria. The county’s restaurants have capitalised on this by offering not just meals, but immersive experiences that connect diners with the land and its produce. Whether it’s through farm-to-table dining, foraging experiences, or menus that tell a story of place, Cumbria’s chefs have tapped into the growing desire for authenticity in food, further cementing the region’s reputation on the culinary map.
Restaurants in the Lake District as a whole are successful because of the quality of the tourism offer, particularly high-end accommodation, which underpins many in our industry cater for," explains Ryan Blackburn – Chef-Owner of The Old Stamp House and The Schelly. "Their quality means that restaurateurs can operate more in line with those that operate in a city environment and aren’t exposed to seasonal fluctuations you would expect to find in the vast majority of rural areas where tourism is nowhere near as strong."
In the end, Cumbria’s culinary success is not the result of a single factor, but rather a convergence of elements that together create a perfect storm of excellence. The region’s natural larder provides an unparalleled foundation, offering chefs the raw materials to create dishes of distinction. The local talent pool, steeped in the traditions of the land and driven by a passion for innovation, elevates these ingredients into culinary art. And the tourism boom has provided both the impetus and the resources for continuous improvement, driving the region’s restaurants to new heights.
Cumbria’s Michelin stars are, therefore, a testament to this intricate interplay between nature, talent, and opportunity. They are a reflection of a region that has embraced its identity and leveraged its unique assets to carve out a place at the pinnacle of British gastronomy. Whether this success is replicable elsewhere remains to be seen, but for now, Cumbria stands as a shining example of what can be achieved when all the right ingredients come together.